Being stopped by the friendly police

Missing breakfast for the 40th time out of the 48 or so days I've spent here I fancied a bite to eat at midday. Tan had had something so I went by myself to a nice place that does sliced sausage with rice and greens. I had one of those crap experiences here. When you think you're fine at the language and then something unexpected turns up that makes you realise you're a lifetime away from mastering it. The woman plonked a huge bowl of soup on my table, filled mostly with greens. I asked "isn't this meant to be sausage?", and she replied that there was meat inside. I gathered that I'd ordered incorrectly and poured myself a bowl of the soup that looked tasty, but not filling, promising to myself that I'd learn how to order food properly next time.

Then to my relief the waitress came and said she was sorry but she'd made a mistake. Phew. I poured the soup back into the bowl and a couple of minutes' later I was served with what I was expecting. Big relief. However, after the meal my gut was not feeling too good. I got on the electric bike and intended to pick up my trainers from the shoe cleaning shop but I noticed a group of 8-10 policemen 20 yards down the road in that direction - they seemed to be pulling people over for no discernable reason. Rather than risk geting a criminal record for something like non-insurance or whatever, I pointed the bike home and went there instead.

Tan got a call from A Hua when I arrived, asking her to go to her place to have lunch, as is normal now. So she took a quick shower and an hour later was ready to go out. I offered to take here as it is now quite hot again and I didn't want her burning in the sun waiting for a san lun che. We got on the bike (luckily she was wearing nice short shorts so she was able to sit astride properly rather than side-saddle), and made our way to A Hua's place.

When we were nearly there one of a dozen policemen jumped out into the middle of the road and bade us stop. How silly of me, I'd completely forgotten about them. Even Tan admitted she should have told me they were around today. Anyway we were pulled over by a smiling gendarmerie who pointed to my head and said "hat". We played ignorant (which wasn't hard as we were) and were told that by law we needed to wear a helmet on such a vehicle. So we had to leave the bike there and get a helmet. Well for Tan it was ok as she was 2 minutes from A Hua's place, but I needed to get back so I asked the simple question "Where can I buy a helmet?". The policeman answered in English "I don't know". This struck me as quite surprising as they must have stopped dozens of non-helmet-donning locals today.

Tan and I left the bike to walk towards A Hua's place, and came across a friend of hers who'd just pulled up on her motorbike. She was quite butch, but offered me her helmet so that I could ride to the shops that sold bikes and get a helmet for myself. I said thank you very much but I didn't fancy wearing another person's sweat for any period of time (I didn't actually say that to her). So Tan said I'd need to walk 5 minutes to get a helmet. This I disagreed with but didn't tell her and left her walking to A Hua's place. I then doubled back and went to the hardware store near the market that I tend to go to for my electric goods needs. I asked the bloke if he had a "tou kui" and he said "dui", leapt upstairs and produced a fine-looking red helmet for 15 kuai. Very cheap in my opinion though who knows about the quality? I told the bloke that there were a dozen policemen stopping people without helmets, and that I would tell these policemen to tell prospective customers to come to his shop, so he had better put some on display - he could make a mint! He looked at me as though I'd just said something in German, so I explained that he could make money by selling his helmets to people stopped by the police for not having one, but he still seemed to not think this was important to his business. Maybe it just was not, but I can't imagine such a thing back home...I would have set up a stall by the police selling helmets for 30 kuai each.

Anyway the helmet fitted fine, was adjustable, and had a chin strap. I took it back to the police and we all had a laugh about it. I still think they could be more effective by having, say, two groups of five, rather than one group of ten. But it was refreshing to be able to talk to a policeman on a human level.

A bit later I ventured out to pick up my cleaned trainers. On the way back I passed the policemen again, safe in the knowledge I had my new helmet on. As I pulled up to the traffic lights I noticed a young lady on an electric bike next to me. She reached down to her feet to pick up a yellow helmet that she wore for all of six seconds as she drove past the policemen, then immediately removed it and placed it back on the floor between her legs. Ingenious?