Long meal by the river

Bloody coughing got me up at 9am after five hours' sleep. I somehow found a 3 hour in-depth video of Christopher Hitchens that kept me awake-dreaming till the afternoon when Li Kun told me to be at his at 12:30. A Wu also called me to say we'd start at after 1pm so I didn't rush too much, and only grabbed a shower at 12:20pm. I was feeling pretty shitty with Nong's cold, so allowed myself a couple of sips of the duty free whisky that had not found someone to be given to. Due to the lack of sleep I also had some cola with a bit more of the W. Intending to be fashionably late, I told Li Kun I would leave around 12:45 but he responded to say to wait 15 minutes as he wasn't there yet...so much for being told to be there at 12:30. So at gone 1pm I left the dian dong che to charge and walked the 10 minutes to Li Kun's, remembering to bring a long-sleeved top and phone charger just in case. Oh, and the bottle of cola.

As I was nearing his office his second daughter spied me and ran at me to give me a huge hug which was absolutely delightful. It's little unexpected things like this happening that can really make your day. We got in his car with his wife and two youngest and drove a good 15 minutes south before coming to a stop at the side of the road to call A Wu as apparently we didn't want to arrive before him as it wouldn't be right. So we basically sat in the car for another 15 minutes or so with his little son on my knee and Li Kun himself trying to learn the words of Hey Jude. It was actually quite tricky to explain what it meant to take a sad song and make it better, but I did my best anyway. Finally A Wu's car turned up and we then continued on our way past a fishing lake and finally to a few houses on the riverbank.

Li Kun's younger daughter and son in the car while waiting for A Wu

It looked like we were among the first to turn up and as it was getting on for 2pm I realised that we were coming for tea rather than lunch. I saw a couple of oldish people manually ripping the corn off the sweetcorn cob and of course joined in to help. It was a lot harder than it looks and I started to tire after just doing one, so I thanked them and went to look around instead. There were a couple of blokes cooking and A Wu's and Li Kun's kids running about with some of the local kids. I ended up taking them down to a small pier where they spent a good half an hour fetching stones to throw in the water under the glorious Guangxi sunshine. Both A Wu's and Li Kun's kids are really comfortable with me now and often take me by the hand to lead me to places. It was just simple fun, but maybe like Li Kun's daughter's hug earlier it just seems to feel more special here, like being here tunes up your sensory perception. I suppose it's generally like that when you are abroad, but when in Europe I don't normally stick out so much and the sensory uptick is more of an aural thing. Here it's pretty much every sense. But for the kids they don't seem to see me as being much different; they've got past the "your eyes are blue, your hair is blond, your nose is tall" stage and I'm just Uncle Peng to them now. And I guess now that my kids are mostly grown up I do miss some sort of interaction with the younger ones and their innocence.

Li Kun and A Wu chatting by the river

A veranda built around a tree

The pier from which the kids and I threw stones, Yi an in the foreground

More people turned up during the afternoon, many of whom knew me and I pretended to remember them. The men smoked and talked and the women just talked, and I mainly stayed with the other kids outside, though aware about the risks of getting sunburnt (though getting sunburnt in November is such a luxury). Then, finally, at 3.44pm it was announced that we were to eat. I was bloody hungry by this point and accepted half a bowl of rice that I wouldn't normally do. We had the lovely spicy bamboo root stuff although they keep telling me it isn't bamboo but something else I've not yet managed to learn or write down. Presently the beer was poured for most of the blokes and white alcohol for a few others. It didn't take as long as usual for cai ma to start, and A Wu suggested I go round the whole table (well both). Well sod it, why not? The only real rule seemed to be that you one of you had to win twice but both had to lose at least once. I was trying to do the maths for the best possible situation - there were about 12 blokes, so at half a glass per loss the best case would be six glasses of Snowflake beer. The worst case would be significantly worse. The actual case was pretty bad; I did pretty well against the majority, but there were two or three blokes that just kept winning and it took a good 7 or 8 losses before I beat them. Then finally to A Wu, but for some reason I caned him, to everyone's delight. I totally lost count of how many glasses I'd imbibed but after ensuring I'd eaten enough I made me genuine excuses and said I needed to rest for a while. I found one of those lazy chairs and pretended to sleep for about 30 minutes. Maybe I did drop off. But Yi an, A Wu's son, wanted me to go and play with him. So I said "15 minutes", and indeed exactly 15 minutes later he came back so I went out to play for a while.

Getting ready to eat

Excusing myself for a shoot with A Wu's and Li Kun's younger daughters respectively

Predictably, as the meal wore on some of the blokes got pretty drunk. I'm generally ok with this although never allow myself to become so imbibed as I like to feel a good degree of control. So after another session at the table I made more excuses to lie down, and once again Yi an wanted me to play. So another 10 minutes later I spent some time with him before it was nearly time for the City Liverpool match. I noticed Li Kun and family had already gone home, which I was slightly annoyed about as I had been due to go back with him but he had probably seen me "sleeping" in the chair and let me lie. So I went for a walk past the pond and sat at the side of a house and managed to find a half-decent stream of the match on my phone. It had been worth taking the portable charger.

Then at half time, around 9.30pm A Wu and family were ready to go back so I got a lift with them. Very annoyingly, a pissed bloke was acting just like the pissed bloke in the broken lift the other night, and may well have been the same person. He grabbed my arm and kissed it and had I had a few more beers I might have done or said something that wasn't appropriate. He had a horrible high-pitched laugh too. Once we arrived at A Wu's I sensed he wanted to walk with me and I made it clear to A Wu that I would walk home alone and walked in the road rather than the pavement to avoid him tracking me. I didn't look back, and just marched on, hoping that A Wu was restraining the other bloke. I would have liked to watch the second half of the footy but by the time I got home it was already in injury time. An unsatisfactory 1-1 draw after a good performance but trying to keep positive at least it's good for the title race.

I was really starting to feel shit now though and was coughing badly. I don't know if the whisky was the cause or the cure but I tried a bit more to help get to sleep after a chat with Awl.