Up at 4.30am - badminton and sing song and bbq

Somehow woke up at 4.30am and couldn’t get back to sleep.
I looked after the kids until Lin Hong came to take them out, which I appreciated but wasn't able to take advantage of by falling back to sleep.

Our flat is on the 2nd floor (3rd if you are foreign)

At some stage I went out to play badminton with Xiao Li, followed by a meal with a couple of his friends. I was dog-tired but he wanted to go out and “sing song” (karaoke). I said I needed a rest so we compromised by going to “wash hair”, which is an excellent way to spend one hour, being pampered by a young lady who not only washes hair, and face, and ears, but also massages all over too.

Xixi with Xiao Li (A Wu) and his wife Xiao Wei (A Ni)

I could have slept after that but we got up and went to see a number of friends in what looks like a new karaoke place. Our room already had about 10 drunk men and 5 sober women in it. I had to drink about 20 glasses of beer but the glasses were more like shot glasses so it was a relatively sober affair. Luckily Tan called soon after I’d arrived and said there were some people at the barbeque place who wanted to see me so I had an excuse to leave.

Bbq was very nice. Around 11.30pm Lin Hong came back with the kids from the town square. They’d had a great time apparently, playing fishing (plastic fishes) as you do. It’s strange that there is so much more to do here for the kids than in London. Not because London doesn’t have places to go, but I think it’s just down to the hot weather and the fact that everywhere is a short, cheap ride away. Xixi fell asleep in another aunt’s arms – and we went home around midnight - sleep followed shortly afterwards which was a good thing as we needed to go to Nanning the next day to be with the family for China's National Day.

Back to Pingguo for meals and new apartment

Waipo was in her element looking after Xixi as much as she could and genuinely loving every minute of it. It seemed we wouldn't be able to drag her out of her arms despite her 70+ years and apparent frailty. But it was a very nice feeling to see the family bonding between them and it seemed to be reciprocated by Xixi.

Xixi with Waipo - where she stayed much of the time

Tan wanted to stay in Nanning for a week but we were in a smallish place with all our bags so I said we’d first move our stuff to Pingguo where we could at least try to settle for a few days. So Lin Hong (a cousin) and her husband A Zheng and daughter Tian Tian came to pick us up in the afternoon. A Zheng's job is to drive the head of Pingguo county around. One of the perks of this job is that he can use the car for personal use when not working. Additionally he can pay for meals by signing for them but of course we won’t be taking advantage of that…hmm. This time the car was a brand new Isuzu 4x4 with huge wheels that really looked like it was designed for off-road use and not taking kids to school.

A Zheng's work car

Fortunately, since the last time we were here two years ago they have finished building the motorway that links Pingguo to Nanning. Now it only takes around 50 minutes, but getting to the motorway from central Nanning can take over half an hour, so in fact the door-to-door journey is around 1h40. But you ask someone from Pingguo how long the journey is and they’ll tell you 50 minutes (they are proud of the new road).

We arrived around 2pm and immediately found our good friends Xiao Li and Xiao Wei and their son Li Ming Da. I gave them both a big hug as we hadn’t seen each other for two years. For the Chinese, though, big greetings don’t really exist – Tan merely raised her hand at Xiao Wei. That used to be strange to me but it’s just culture. We went out straightaway to a nice restaurant for a good meal, but I was told not to eat too much as we were going for another one at 5pm.

After the meal we went to see the apartment we’d be staying in for the next three months. It’s a nice, rather simple two-bedroomed place (not three as Tan had told me) with a sort-of adjoining study room to the main bedroom as well as an en-suite bathroom with a western toilet! Yes! There aren’t many of those in Pingguo.

Luckily we didn’t go for our evening meal until 6.30pm, and it was a very nice social occasion with our landlord and lady (friends of the family), Xiao Li’s big sister’s husband (we call him Jie Fu) and various other friends in our own private eating room. Food was great, with my personal favourite – fried bees. I ended up playing Cai Ma – the famous drinking game where two people show a number of fingers at the same time, like scissors paper stone, except you have to guess what the total will be. They were quite impressed by my prowess in this game, especially as we normally play in Cantonese.

Our first evening meal in Pingguo this year

Leilei and some friends

I pretended I was drunk (on 3.6% beer you have to sometimes) and managed to leave at around 10pm I guess (actually I was a bit pissed – but more tired). At home Xiao Li wanted to open the bottle of wine I’d bought when we arrived in Pingguo for a little over a quid but as we had no opener we decided not to (normally I’d have used a coat hanger but I just wanted to sleep). So I got to bed soon after midnight hoping for a good night’s sleep.

Up at 5am and sweet cool tea

Stupidly woke up at 5am and it was too hot to get back to sleep (yet air con was a bit too cool with baby in room). Breakfast (about 4 hours later) was noodles with meat and coriander – even Leilei had some - he called them “Thomas the Tank Engine Noodles” as they looked like a train going into a tunnel as he sucked them in his mouth.


Leilei having a cup of herbal Liang Cha (cool tea)

We did get out into Nanning and although Leilei wasn't eating much he was happy to drink some sweet cool tea. I don't remember much more and presume I wanted to, but didn't get, an early night.

Back to Nanning after big breakfast and 11am lunch of crabs

Had a big breakfast with the family at 9am and packed my bags afterwards. I took out the kids to XiJiaHui park while Tan did her stuff (you do not want to be with a woman while she is packing – the stress is pushed over to you and you are blamed for everything).

Tai Chi in the morning

It seemed like this bloke didn't want us to cross his path. Actually he was very friendly

Xixi enjoying the park and the weather

Zhang Yong came to pick us up for lunch at 10.30, just as I was starting to digest a boiled egg, a fried egg, three sausages, bacon, greens and a bowl of fruit (to balance the meal). He took us to a rather good restaurant he took us to two years ago that specialises in crabs. We managed to get through the crab and prawn dishes fairly easily for an 11am lunch. I was a bit disappointed they only served Budweiser beer, and more so that it was only 3.1%, as I was hoping to be a bit tiddly before catching the plane to Nanning. Still, after three bottles I was feeling the effect that was quickly to wash away.

We got back to the hotel where our mian bao taxi was waiting – basically a van (mian bao means bread – as the van looks like a loaf of bread). We said goodbye and thanks for all the crabs to Zhang Yong, then made the half hour journey to Shanghai’s 2nd airport, Hong Qiao, which serves internal destinations. While checking in the security woman asked me to open one of our bags which I duly did. She rummaged around and found a bottle of vodka and one of whisky, which I explained were presents. She shook the vodka and seemed happy, then began going through everything asking what it was (Tan had taken Xixi to be changed so it wasn’t easy to translate everything). Eventually she laid her hands on some hand cleaning gel that purports to get rid of 99.9% of germs. I explained this was important for the children’s health as it reduced the chances of them them catching diseases but this woman was out to get something from this bag so she decided to prove how “dangerous” the gel was by dipping some cotton wool into it and lighting it. Guess what? It stayed alight. Wow. It’s not like it exploded or anything. Stupid bitch, by that logic she should have confiscated the vodka and whisky, I mean this wasn’t even hand luggage. I reckon it was just to do with not losing face after asking someone to open their bag for inspection. Well at least no-one noticed the bottle of hand gel in Tan’s hand luggage…

Anyway, the plane was delayed due to “mechanical trouble” according to the sign in the departure lounge, to “aeroplane maintenance” according to the announcements over the tannoy, and to “late arrival of aeroplane” according to the announcement in the plane itself. I suppose all three could be true though it doesn’t do one’s confidence any good. At least after the first hour’s delay you can show your boarding passes and get a free bottle of tea, and after the second hour you get a free meal and a can of tea. Fortunately (not for the airport cleaning staff) the delay was only a few minutes over two hours, so just as everyone was tucking into their food there was a rush to queue to get on the plane, which meant the bins quickly filled with half-eaten trays of rice, pork etc. During this time three ladies introduced themselves to us – they were friends of Tan’s big sister, returning to Ping Xiang near the Vietnam border where they all live. They’d seen us and wondered if we might be Tan’s family so they rang big sister to find out. So there was a lot of cooing over Xixi – not for the first time this trip I expect…

We arrived at the airport and Tan’s 2nd sister arrived half an hour later to pick us up with about four friends. We just about managed to get all our stuff into the two small cars, and made the 45 minute drive to her house with no back seatbelts and kids squirming all over the place. Tan’s 2nd sister (we call her Er Jie – sister 2) has a modest two-bedroomed apartment about a 10 minute drive from central Nanning. There were some other people – friends, neighbours and relatives – in the house to greet us so I went out with A Heng (Tan’s brother’s son) to buy some barbeque then got to bed at around 2am.

Floating shoe boxes and big wheel graffiti

Awoke at 5am after two hours sleep with a very painful tummy and was nearly sick… I was feeling feverish and started seeing floating shoe boxes above me. It took some effort but I managed to logic them away by focusing on the fact that they were not real. Also, by doing this in Chinese it made it easier to concentrate on the job of removing the shoe boxes from my mind. Then I had the idea for a big wheel on the side of a flat cliff, with wonderful views one side, and the choice of shooting paint balls on the other to colour/graffiti the cliff. It felt like a good idea at the time as it would be easier to erect than the London Eye, but somehow I don’t think it will catch on.

After finally getting some money out I went back to sleep at 11am for 4 hours, when Diana came again and went out shopping with Tan and the kids, then slept again till 6.30pm when they came back. Even then I found it hard to get up to go for a meal. This time we went to a “Vegetarian New Age” restaurant in a fashionable road in Shanghai that Diana had been to earlier in the day. Although the food was a fairly good alternative to meat, there was no disguising the fact there was no alternative to beer, so I still haven’t had more than a pint at any meal yet….

Outside, the girls (Diana and Tan) realised there was still half an hour of shopping time to go, which they made due use of. At least we were constrained by baggage allowance, something that didn’t appear to apply to Diana and her 12 new pairs of shoes. By 10pm just about everyone on Huai Hai Central Road was waiting for a taxi, so the girls started trying to flag one down too. They didn’t appear to understand me when I suggested walking up one of the adjoining roads as there were fewer people there, and looked at me like I was doing something to spite them when I turned up one of these roads. Of course within a minute I’d found a cab. Did I get any thanks for using my logic to enable these ladies and kids to get home safely and quickly?

Despite the amount of sleep today I still managed to fall asleep by 1am.

Lack of sleep and typical City

Awoke after four hours sleep at 4am to the sound of a text message from Andge saying it looked like Man City would be in the next round of the Carling Cup to play Derby, as they were winning at Brighton. Spent the next two hours following the game on the internet as Brighton pulled back, brought the game into extra time, then won 5-3 on penalties. Even being the richest club in the world it is still grim being a City fan.

Went down for breakfast at 6.30am with Xixi, to the delight of the young ladies who work there. Then took her out at 7am to XiJiaHui park, which is a very serene place in the middle of a bustling metropolis. Most of the park’s visitors were 50+, and doing their routines of Tai Chi, or other slightly more rigorous exercises such as dancing. You would see them on their own in the middle of the path standing on one leg like slightly animate statues.

Our Malaysian friend Diana, who had arranged to be in Shanghai at the same time as us, came to our hotel around 11am but by this time I was ready to get some sleep. So instead of going out for lunch we decided to eat in the hotel, which was in fact very nice except they didn’t have much veggie food for Diana. I went off for a snooze and let the ladies take the kids out to do some shopping. When I awoke a couple of hours later I went to get some money out and found I couldn’t. It turned out (after a long and expensive phone call) that the cards had been blocked for use abroad. It would have been nice to be told about that before.

Tan’s ex-boss Zhang Yong and his chubby 11 year old daughter came to pick us up from the hotel in the evening and took us to an expensive hotel in Pu Dong district, where we ate lots of seafood (not a good idea on your second day in China).

Although shattered, I couldn’t sleep due to a dodgy tummy so I had a beer and eventually got to sleep at nearly 3am

Back to China after two years with a new addition!

Kids were nearly perfect on the eleven and a half hour flight. Xixi slept all but 2 hours and the rest of the time delighted the crew members (all female and pretty – very 80s).
We didn’t have to queue to get through customs either so all in all a good trip. Having said that the taxi to the hotel took two hours in sweltering traffic jams that left Leilei and Xixi’s heads sopping wet. It was only after we arrived that we found the taxi had a/c – the bastard driver was probably just trying to save a few pence by not using it. He would have done better driving more sensibly in stop-start traffic...petrol isn't cheap enough here to use top revs just to move up 10 yards...

Last day in Pingguo

The flight from Nanning to Shanghai wasn't until the evening so we had an easy day of packing before we left A Wu's home for the last time to go to the airport. A Wu's and Lin Hong's family accompanied us in two cars and we had a sad goodbye (at least for me).

Leilei saying goodbye to Waipo

Leilei not saying goodbye to his family at Nanning airport

And that was it. A flight to Shanghai followed by a flight to London the next morning. But I'm so glad to have been able to spend all this time with the family here and it's really helped Leilei (and me) bond with many people. Who knows if we'll ever be able to do this again? That was the main reason for prolonging my stay. And I have no regrets!

Last night in Pingguo

It had crept up like a tin of baked beans...it was our last night in Pingguo. A magical two months that had turned into three months had to come to an end.

Leilei, Tan, and me at the guangchang

We went for a meal at A Ni's parents' house and I played with A Da, sadly knowing it would be the last time for many months at least. The meal was good except for the lamb's blood, but would have been better if I'd not known we were leaving imminently.

Our last evening meal

We were sent off by another outing to KTV but it just didn't do it for me tonight. Even though there were women (drunk or drugged judging by the way they danced), I just didn't get into the mood.

Last karaoke with Boss Liang

Boss Liang dancing with some strange girl

Oh well, I will not complain. It's been a great time while it lasted. And we still have one more day....

Venky's Last Supper

Venky and I had discovered a lovely little eating place a couple of days ago where you could sit down and eat a scrumptious meal of rice, greens, and tofu in a pretty earthenware bowl for 3 kuai. It's not the price that makes it attractive, but more the quality of the food and the simplicity of the surroundings, something that would not appeal to most of the people who take us our for the (albethem lovely) lavish meals we have become accustomed to.

At Venky's and my favourite daytime eatery

So we went there for lunch, this time with A Wu, who at first seemed a little indignant, but soon warmed to the place presumably because we obviously liked it too. Needless to say a couple of beers were poured....

Night time appeared, accompanied with darkness, as it is wont to do, but the beer we started at lunch had somehow continued throughout the afternoon and followed us, for some reason, to Lao Ma's saloon. Venky was by now rather well-oiled and decided he needed a red bandanna dyed into his hair. As you do. So I translated to Lao Ma and she understood and asked if he was sure. I didn't translate, but just said he was. I secretly didn't want to give him the chance of jibbing out.

Well he went through with it and bravo! It looked a treat!

Venky's new hairstyle!

The evening was spent at a bbq and further imbibation ensued.

Venky's last supper

Shoe Polish

After the excesses of last night I can't really remember what we did today other than getting our shoes polished by the ladies outside the supermarkets in central Pingguo. Venky is leaving soon and after paying his one kuai for the job, forced another four or five on the lady, who looked happy and said to come back tomorrow!

The shoe polisher was not the only happy one!

Massage, Meal, and More Karaoke

Today we went for a massage! Ah yes the thing they do so much better and cheaper here!

...but painful at times...not that I would show it

Venky loving it

I think the massage left us feeling hungry, so we went for a bite to eat. Unfortunately, some of the potential bites were not Venky-suitable, i.e. the turtle (again). Luckily Venky is not judgemental regarding others' tastes so we happily sat around a table with friends and family to celebrate...well I'm not sure really but every meal feels like a bit of a celebration here....

My friend

Who's scared of who?

In fact this did seem like some sort of genuine celebration, and Lin Hong was dressed in smart work clothes, as were some others, and I think it was some sort of bank do. Plus the fact many were drinking red wine added to the effect. Although Venky and I stuck to the Li Quan, after enough gan beis we started to get into it more and as usual Venky's shirt buttons gradually got more undone from the top....

Venky seems to be in a slow-motion strip with some important people of Pingguo

Lin Hong on the right proposing a toast with her colleagues I think - that was the only glass of red I had tonight

Well I suppose last time it was me doing the same thing...

Yeah this was me last year...

This seems to be Venky's party trick

...and this was Venky last year!

One rather drunk bloke and two rather worried people

By the time the meal had finished it had been arranged that us blokes would go to "sing song" and the women would do whatever they had arranged. Fair enough.

Needless to say more beer was consumed, and unfortunately (not for them) there was a dearth of females. A few did turn up later but not before we were rather well-oiled and into singing mode. A Wu's big sister's husband, Jiefu, took a load of photos but it was difficult finding some half-decent ones....

Karaoke is about letting off steam as much as it is about singing

Er...maybe had there been women we'd have behaved more decently...

Good buddies!

Oh yeah, Tan had been in Nanning with A Ni and just got back for the meal earlier...sporting a tattoo for the first time. I was a tiny bit mortified until I saw it and agreed it was fairly good and wasn't in an unsuitable place.

Tan's new butterfly tattoo

Bees, Turtles, and Karaoke

The day sort of turned into evening as in much of it was slept through.

Venky went on a sojourn at some time and when it was time to eat we happened upon him traversing the street on a san lun che much to his amusement. Maybe he'd already found a beer place. Well it was gone 5pm so why not?

At the restaurant we looked at the various offerings of bees (one of my favourites) and turtles, and I hoped there would be enough vegetarian options for Venky (not that this place has failed us yet). After a sumptuous meal we somehow got cajoled into going to "sing song". Oh well, I suppose for Venky this is a new thing, at least in China.

Bees

A long-nosed turtle

We found some vege stuff for Venky

We met up with Lu Wen and his little brother, together with A Wu and another bloke or two. As married as I was, I couldn't help noticing the lack of female counterparts but thought better of mentioning this.

Lack of females

We played some drinking game that was so much dependent on luck that I nearly complained (dice on their own don't do it for me), but I started winning so kept schtum until Venky announced he wanted to sing "All Rise" by "Blue", or some similar popular music boy band. Half way through I realised it was actually related to legal stuff, which is Venky's profession, but I doubt anyone else did.

Still, despite the percentage of the beer, it kept being poured and did its job and we acted like teenagers and as Tan will never see this I don't care too much!

Lu Wen, me, Lu Wen's little brother, Venky, A Wu

Venky's arrival

Not sure how we'd sorted it out but Venky came today, as he had last year.

Leilei waiting for Venky's arrival

Of course that meant going out for a beer and a bite to eat, so we did. We had a great time with my friends and acquaintances until Venky declared after about three bottles of 3.1% beer that he felt sick. I actually believed him that it was the bubbles as there was no other excuse unless he was the mother of all lightweights....

Venky in full swing

So we went for a walk by the river and he ended up giving me a big (man) hug and thanking me for inviting him down here. It was quite nice actually, but I knew I needed to get him home. Typically, he refused getting in any car as he didn't want to be enclosed, so we ended up agreeing that I would take a san lun che with him to the hotel, followed by A Wu's henchmen.

We had some nice ducks tongues

I had hoped to watch the Man U v Liverpool match at Venky's hotel, and so had Venky but it appeared sleep was more on his mind. After a few minutes' fervant search I did get a really grainy picture of the match, but by then he was flat out, and I didn't particularly want to stay, so as A Wu was still there we left the room and went back to where we are staying and I don't think I bothered to watch the second half.

Getting colder but Leilei back

It had been quite cold for the last week...so much so that many people bought Leilei lots of thick clothes. Luckily they will be very useful for UK winter. Unfortunately we have too much stuff to bring back, so we will have to send some by boat. Thankfully today was warm again...around 30 during midday so we can't complain.

Really happy to be back with Leilei after he spent about four days with his grandma in Bangxu, though by all accounts he had a great time! He's not fotgotten his mummy or daddy though...and still remembers how to say "carry me...please".

Got a comment on my diary about how the following paragraph was "racist". I'd better reply. For a start, here is the paragraph (China doesn't allow me to add comments to comments, as far as I know).

"Also, women are much more feminine here than in the UK. They wear dresses more often and look like women. They rarely drink beer and don’t burp as much as the men. They look happier than English women and don’t have chips on their shoulders about trying to be “equal”. That’s the important thing. Women are happy. Yes, they have a more defined role than in the UK, and so do the men – and I think it works better."

I was accused of being racist towards English women as well as men. Well I made a few obsevations that hold true for the place I have been living in for the last three months. Admittedly it probably doesn't speak for every place in China, but I stand by what I said about Chinese women being happier. I stand accused of having made a sexist comment, perhaps, but racist? That seems a bit far fetched. Maybe it's a matter of semantics but as far as I'm aware there's no such thing as an English race...and in China we have 56 races officially.

Today was so warm....I washed three sets of clothes and hung them out and 90% were dry by 10pm... then we lost against Liverpool 1-0 - although put up a decent fight.

Infected tape and electric bike

Up about 9am but let Tan do Leilei as for some reason my head was rather heavy. Having said that, even if you wake up with a hangover from Chinese beer, one thing you don’t crave is a glass of water – some people in the UK say if you go out drinking beer you should drink half a pint of water for every pint of beer…I suppose drinking 3.6% beer is a bit like doing that. Anyway, Tan took Leilei to grandma and auntie’s place, where they took him away and on the next bus to Bangxu.

I took advantage and went back to sleep until 11. Tan had borrowed a camcorder from Xiao Li’s brother-in-law, in order that I could copy the tape I had made some weeks previously onto a cd via the laptop. Unfortunately, after I put the tape in and turned the camcorder on, it just displayed an error message. Damn. I tried with a brand new tape and still got the same error. It was only a minute later when I realised that the tape I had recorded on the other month (and had been lying in the bookshelf since) was utterly infested with tiny red ants. They were now crawling all over the tape – not just inside…and I noticed they were carrying eggs. Yes, some bastard family of ants had decided to make a nest inside my 90 minutes of video tape from China. As I banged the tape on the windowsill more and more ants came out…and eventually a couple of larger ones with wings…, which I presume, are queens or something.

I did a search on google for the error message “C:31:23”, and found that normally it can be fixed by removing the battery, or by smacking the camcorder on the side. Thankfully (very thankfully, as they are not cheap), the camcorder responded to the former and I was spared the embarrassment of telling the owner that a bunch of ants had ruined his pride and joy. I have not since tried to play the original tape – there are still ants crawling about inside….

The other day Xiao Wei arrived home with her son Li Mingda on a new motorbike. It was a pretty nice looking moped in dark blue. They already have a red one, but this was a present from her mother – and apparently is not a moped but an electric bicycle due to the lack of any petrol engine. This means anyone can ride it without a licence. Thanks mum what a great present! It looks just like a moped but is silent. You just plug it in to the mains every few nights and there you go – much less pollution (ok I know the electricity has to be produced somewhere – but still…). And the best thing about it is the price – 2000 kuai – about £130. I swear if I’d known that I’d have got one as soon as we arrived (note to self: buy one next time I spend any appreciable time in China).

New electric moped. Not bad for £130!

As we were having a fantastic bbq with Biao ge (the one who is the master of cooking duck – and, it transpires, lamb) I found myself mulling over sexual equality in China. I’ve read that one of the things that will slow down China becoming a predominant world power is its subjugation of women. Now I’ll admit that the one-child policy has brought an increasing awareness of how important it is to have a son – and I find that abhorrent. I also am aware of the dearth of females in politics and high-powered jobs in this country (but I don’t think it’s drastically different in the UK). What I have noticed, though, is many women doing traditionally men’s jobs, such as driving buses and building houses.

Also, women are much more feminine here than in the UK. They wear dresses more often and look like women. They rarely drink beer and don’t burp as much as the men. They look happier than English women and don’t have chips on their shoulders about trying to be “equal”. That’s the important thing. Women are happy. Yes, they have a more defined role than in the UK, and so do the men – and I think it works better.

Sick City top but at least we won

I am wearing a Man City top that smells of sick. I washed it last night in preparation for today, like last weekend when we drew 0-0 with Newcastle.

The reason it smells of sick is that Leilei woke up on the stroke of half time (not a bad time to wake up as we were ahead 3-0), and sicked on my shoulder. Unfortunately he had a bit of a cough and wouldn’t go to bed, so I took him downstairs for a bit, and then made him play the car game on my mobile that always gets him asleep.

Except that he wouldn’t sleep this time. It took a half hour phone call from Awl before Leilei was asleep.

OK. They are all asleep now! So my shirt smells of baby puke! We won! We beat Fulham 3-1! Ok we could have done better but it’s three points! And Corradi scored at last!

Earlier today we went to a celebration for the birth of a baby girl (a month ago) to a cousin of Tan. It was a bit like a wedding celebration in that it was situated in the poshest hotel (the one close to our house) and was preceded by five minutes of extremely loud bangers. Similar to our wedding meal last year, the guests started eating as soon as they sat down at their tables - no standing on ceremony waiting for the baby to arrive (well, everyone had paid 100 kuai each in red envelopes to be there).

I was invited to play cai ma by various blokes, and managed to beat some of them, much to the others' amusement. However I had to leave before 7.30 to look after Leilei while his mother prepared to go out dancing. He was to have gone to Bangxu with his grandma tonight, but they are now going tomorrow. I felt a bit bad at the meal, as it seemed more people wanted to see him than the baby we were supposed to be celebrating...


Leilei drinking orange. Tan's mum is on Tan's right and her brother's wife on her mum's right. The eggs are dyed red for...err...good luck.

Lie-in

Had a nice lie in without Leilei, but went to pick him up later in the morning. A lie in. You really can’t appreciate how nice that is unless you haven’t had one for so many months. Sometimes I get up early and do all the baby things till late morning just so Tan can experience that feeling (normally when I’m after something).

It’s really hot again now, including the nighttime. Most men, though, still wear long trousers during the day and black shoes. There is a bit of a penchant for wearing shiny black shoes with white socks. Fortunately, Xiao Li and his friends wear dark socks.

Visits to the ladies outside the shops who clean shoes are frequent, as it gets quite dusty here. In fact I’ve noticed this wherever I’ve stayed in China, including Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou. I think one of the reasons it’s so dusty here is simply the amount of building going on. I went to clean my white trainers today. I took Leilei out to watch his mum dancing for a bit (more to show him off to the other ladies), then went to buy some milk powder as we’ve given the other tin to his grandma. She is meant to be taking him to Bangxu tomorrow for a couple of days.

Leilei stays the night with waipo

As I was out shopping in the evening with Leilei, I thought I’d pop in on his grandma as I haven’t seen her in a week or so. After a few minutes there I said I needed to go to pick up Tan from dancing, and her mum asked if I could leave Leilei there…to stay the night. So I did. He’s got a lot better with other people now – you can leave him with just about anyone as long as he has a car or a ball in one hand.

New place to wash iron ore

I normally tell Xiao Li I need to do some work when he asks me to go to his work with him, but as I haven’t gone for some time, I thought I’d go after lunch. The last time I went was two weeks ago in the baking sun, while we stood in a maize field waiting for the owner to turn up to see if we could do some business deal.

That day I found out that the place in the mountains where they wash the iron ore, in preparation for selling to the factories, was no longer usable as the lake there had dried up. They needed a new place to wash the ore where the water would be plentiful.

Well, that day, two weeks ago was part of the plan. We eventually met the owner of a plot of land that had been used for growing maize, but was situated, conveniently, a hundred yards from the main river that flows from Pingguo (and continues to Nanning, and eventually to the sea). A few words were spoken, and I understood that we were to start washing the iron ore in this place instead of in the mountain.

So I was quite surprised to see a half built wall around an area nearly the size of a football pitch when I arrived. More than that, there was about 100 tons of iron ore awaiting washing, plus some women digging out the foundations for a new house on this plot.

They had taken this seriously. Xiao Li had paid the owner of the land for three years. The area was to be walled off, and have a couple of inhabitants in order to keep non-desirables away. A three metre deep pool was to be excavated and pumped full of water from the nearby river. I asked when the house would be ready (I gave the women a hand digging the holes for the foundation stones) and was told “five days”. I asked when the whole thing would be ready and was told “ten days”. I was surprised but believed these figures. And I will be here long enough to confirm them.

One thing is for sure, they get things done here. I presume there isn’t a lot of governmental interference, or employment laws they have to follow. We just paid the four women digging the house a few hundred kuai (works out to £1.80 a day), and those building the wall get twice that, then spent the rest of the time checking the work. I was encouraged to tell them to “kuai yi dian!!” (“hurry up!!”), but I could only do so in a laughing manner, although I did go around the workers and ask them how they were doing and what methods they were using to build the wall (they think I’m their boss).

So now I know what Xiao Li has been doing recently: overseeing the work on a new place to wash and distribute their iron ore. Ingenious! They’ll be able to produce five to ten times more than previously at not much more cost.

Lao Tao surveying the new premisis.

A woman digging the foundations of a new house that will take five days to build. She will have earned under a tenner in that time.