Dog paws

Tan and the girls went to Nanning in the afternoon, after having visited A Ni's mum, who's in hospital with a lung infection unfortunately.

Er Jie and her husband and Qiqi have been back for a couple of days, and she told me we were going to eat at the place around the corner. Great, I was quite hungry, so we went to the restaurant that opened two months ago and she ordered a huge hotpot for us (including the kids, a neighbour and Jiuma and Waipo). Before it was even served I got a call from A Wu asking me to come over to his friend's house for a meal. I told him I was just about to start a meal, so he said I could come over in an hour. I said I'd ring him. The cow ribs were very tasty and I was quite stuffed.

We got home an hour later and I remembered I needed to buy plane tickets for next week boohoo, so went to the Ctrip website. Conveniently they have a skype button, which means you can make a free call. Even more conveniently, I didn't have to wait any time in a queue. I ordered plane tickets from Nanning to Shenzhen at 3.10pm. That should give us enough time to make it to Hong Kong for the 11.30pm flight back to UK. I did enquire about direct flights to HK, but there were only two seats left and they were three times the price anyway. During this time I got calls from A Wu asking where I was, and I explained I had to finish buying the tickets first, so eventually got to his friend's place around 7.30pm.

In fact there were two "tong xue" (colleagues - from primary school), and they were having a sumptious meal that I just couldn't take part in. However it was nice company, and it was all I could do to do a couple of gan beis. The main speciality they had was dog paws. A Wu made the ingenious statement that they were special because you only get four per dog. I couldn't let them down so I took the smallest one, and started knawing at it. It's not that much different from a really large duck foot, except for the shape and you get more padding. They took delight in seeing me eat it so put another one in my bowl straight away, this time taking photos of me. I made my excuses to get up and play with the host's 6 month old baby girl. She was delightful, and managed a smile or two. So light as well, and no nappy of course. Finally left, bloated, at around 9pm.


Another delicacy - dog paws

Leilei had been up all day and I made the mistake of calling Tan so he could have a word with her at 11pm. As she put the phone down he started wailing for mama, and wouldn't stop for half an hour by which time he'd cried himself to sleep.

Zhang Hongping meal

I got up early for some reason, so not wishing to waste the day I went out and got some breakfast for the family. Nearly everything was eaten up so I must have got the right stuff. By 10am Leilei was ready to be taken to Nong Kaicheng's house to play. Xixi naturally came too, but when we got there we were accosted by the woman whose daughter runs the medicine shop near A Hua's shop, who is mad about foreigners. She was asking why we never came to visit (she sometimes calls me in the morning to ask us to come around) but I said we'd been busy, and now had to go to the house to sort stuff out. Actually that was true, sort of, so Xixi and I made our excuses and drove to pick up some Longyan fruit. On the way out of the market I heard the wistful strains of "You mei you ren cen gao su ni", the sad pop song that has been quite popular for a year or two. I noticed that it was being sung by a one legged man with a wireless microphone, who was hopping along with a piece of string around his waste attached to a speaker on wheels that he was dragging with him. We drove on by but a few seconds later I was hit by a poignant stab of sorrow and remorse, realising how lucky we were, and how hard his life probably was. We made a U-turn and drove back into the market area and I deposited 10 kuai in the basket on his speaker. He looked genuinely thankful and said "Xie xie" many times on the microphone. Maybe because of me or maybe not at all, as I thanked him for his singing (he did have a lovely voice), I noticed a couple of other people coming out of the marketplace to put in a kuai or two. It lifted my heart a little bit.

I was finding it difficult to get a siesta, despite being shattered, as the kids didn't need one. I finally nodded off at around 3pm and got a call from Zhang Hongping half an hour later. This is one of the Bangxu blokes I know from going to eat at the seafood place regularly. He was inviting me and the family to go out for a meal that evening. I said I wasn't sure but that I'd get back to him at 5pm to confirm. He rang up an hour later to tell me the room number.

As Tan was around at 5.30pm I asked if she wanted to come. To my surprise she said she did; she knew of Zhang Hongping but had not met him in person - apparently he was working in the Bank of China while she was working in the Agricultural Bank of China. The kids were out having fun, so we let them be and got a san lun che to the restaurant by the new residential place just outside town on the road to Nanning. It is a very good restaurant, and we sat at a huge table, with the middle revolvable section seemingly so frictionless that it never stopped turning! I was a bit worried that the beer was poured into huge bowls, and then poured into glasses from a large ladle - normally this is what the men do when playing drinking games, but I wasn't really in the mood not having had much sleep. Some more people turned up, one bloke with a posh bottle of white alcohol. I never normally touch the stuff but I didn't want him to feel bad so I allowed half an inch to be poured into my glass. Just opening the bottle I could taste the stench of the stuff. The blokes laughed as I held my nose as I drank it, and was more than happy to move on to beer.


Fancy meal with Zhang Hongping, he is on my left

Tan left a little early with a couple of the wives and a son, while I stayed till around 9pm. I explained that I was tired and needed to sleep, and I didn't have too much pressure to finish all the beer, though I did have to play a few rounds of cai ma. I said I'd go for a doze, and Zhang Hongping told me to call him when I woke up to go for another bite to eat. Actually I didn't sleep that early, but had no intention of going out further that evening. However, as Leilei was busy playing and Xixi was already asleep I sneaked out for a swift head wash at a local place. The boss was waiting outside the front door and invited me in, so what could I do? And they only charged 10 kuai for it!

Well now I really was ready for bed but Tan received a phone call from her friend A Xia, who had a nasty temperature and a skin reaction to something; I popped out at midnight to bring her some paracetamol we'd brought from the UK.

Flat furnished and meal with Ma Laoban's family

I tried to sleep, but Tan suddenly told me I needed to get up and carry A Heng downstairs so he could go to the hospital as he couldn't move due to a poorly tummy. I was a bit dazed but quickly put on some clothes and went to the living room to find no-one there. "He's already gone downstairs", I was told. Typical. Anyway, the electricity came back at 7.47am, a time well noted as the air con clicked back into life. I was already awake anyway, so I played with the kids for a bit before taking them to the new house. We now have a wardrobe in our bedroom. The kids weren't quite as interested in the house as I was so I took them down to Jiuma's place near the centre of town. However, as it was not long after 9am there weren't many people around to play with, and Jiuma was at hospital with her son A Heng. So after a few minutes we decided to head home. Leilei was whining about wanting to play with Nong Kaicheng, so I said if he asked nicely we could go and have a look if he was home. He did, so we went and he was so I dropped off a happy son with a happy friend. Then I heard "Xixi!!", and I noticed it was Boss Yang's pretty little sister calling from a dance school across the way. She wanted Xixi to join in but Xixi was having none of it. I didn't have the energy to force her to and forcing is not a good way anyway so we just went home instead.


Our large wardrobe, sitting where I said it would be at the foot of our bed


The kids not appreciating what a tea table should be for

There we met Jiuma and I asked her about A Heng - she said that he was fine which was a bit of a relief. Waipo was also there, but the both of them took Xixi out a few minutes later. Tan was asleep, so I had a little time to myself. I was sorely tempted to catch up on some shut-eye but was determined to wait until I'd at least had some lunch. At midday I decided to search out the family I ate with the other week, when they had seen me driving past and invited me in to eat out of the blue. I found a box of wine gums, and a box of peppermint tea I'd brought from the UK and put them in my bag as gifts. The problem was I couldn't remember where they lived. And today was just about the hottest day so far, proper sunblasting blistering heat, with not so much humidity. I realised my forearms were burning so I stopped every minute or so under a tree for protection. I bought a bottle of water at a small shop and was asked if I wanted two. I then found I'd given the woman 3 kuai instead of 2 for a 1.5 kuai bottle. I said I only wanted one and she gave me my extra kuai plus 5 mao change. I never ever feel ripped off here - it's just not in the culture. One of the reasons I feel very comfortable here.

It took the best part of an hour but I eventually happened upon the place I'd eaten at before, but there were only a handful of people in. They did remember me and asked if I wanted to finish the remnants of their lunch. I daresay if I'd not got lost I'd have been there in time for the whole thing. Well, I gave the father the box of wine gums and tea and he put them on the table. The Chinese, at least in this area, have what at first seems like a strange way of receiving gifts. Or more of a non-way. They don't burst out in smiles and say "wow! how nice!", they take them in a very run-of-the-mill way, that could easily be construed by foreigners as ingratitude. It's not that, and they are really appreciative, but I haven't fathomed out exactly how (if that is fathomable). Even the kids didn't look too excited about the sweets, although they opened the box of tea. I knew, though, that the gesture was appreciated, and I left by saying when I had time I'd bring the kids down for tea one evening - only mad dogs and Englishmen, it seems, venture out in the Pingguo midday sun.

I snatched as much shade as I could as I drove for some sausage and rice at a place I like near A Hua's shop. That filled a hole, and with a cold beer to help I felt the arms of Morpheus doing their trick and I made one last scalding trip in the bike back home where I managed to grab a couple of hours' kip. I woke up somewhat refreshed and called the wife to see what she was doing. Well, she just spent 10000 kuai, that's what she'd been doing. That was for the sofa, the coffee table, the tv cabinet, a shoe cupboard and the sofabed for my study. This had better be blooming good as that's nearly a cool grand she'd just spent while I slept.

I went to the house at around 5pm. I noticed that there was no electricity (again), so gave Lin Hong (who was in the house) a ring as I wondered how the devil they got all the furniture up there. When I told her there was no leccy she sounded surprised, which meant it must have been a very recent occurance. So I rang the wife and told her, much to her annoyance as she was just arriving at the house herself laden with purchases from the supermarket. We couldn't just wait for the electricity to come back so we plodded the 13 flights of stairs to our place to find a welcoming home-like place for the first time. The (non-real) skin sofa fits well with the wood floor and white walls, ditto for the coffee table and tv cabinet thing. The only thing out of place was my lovely tea table. We tried moving it to the end of the sofa near the bathroom but it didn't really work. Then we decided to put it in the corner by the main window and next to the tv cabinet. After some minute adjustments we all agreed it was in the perfect place; I would be able to serve tea to my friends without getting in the way of anyone else, and the table would be in full view of anyone sitting on the sofa. As an extra bonus I liked the sofabed in my study. It's not the widest, and would suit a skinnier couple, or one parent and small child, as it was not quite a double size. However, it was very comfortable for both sitting and lying, and didn't tip over when you sat on the edge (unlike the one I'd tried to the shop-owner's embarrassment last week while looking at one to buy).


View from the sofa, front door opposite. Note the tea table on the right in the wrong place


Tan modelling the new sofa in our nice new apartment, tea table in the correct place now


Tan capturing a pic of the room while I'm getting one of the sofabed in my study, plus the xie gui just in front of Tan and to her left


Me with my pride and joy - fancy a cuppa?


Leilei's bedroom - will double as a spare when couples come over - big enough for 2 + baby...And and Lis??


I was happy with the way things were looking, but I was a bit peckish too. I first wandered down to Ma Laoban's computer shop as I wanted to ask his advice on buying the tea accoutrements. He said he'd take me out later in the evening to get some stuff, but first invited me back to his place to have dinner with "some people". "Some people" turned out to be his family, and there were a lot of them; he has three elder sisters and a younger brother, plus there was the father and various other younger people who no doubt were their kids. I was honoured to be invited to such an event, and really enjoyed the company of this close knit and decent family. A couple of them were beer drinkers, so I was sat down with them to gan bei. The other drinker wanted "er gou tou" (rank white alcohol I can't touch), and Ma Laoban went downstairs to get some, along with some plastic glasses he'd forgotten earlier. He came back with the wrong type of er gou tou. No problem, his wife phoned down to the local shop he'd just been to and asked for the 46% version the bloke wanted. A couple of minutes later the lady came up with the goods, and she was even invited to have some food with us (which she unfortunately declined). The er gou tou drinker poured a full glass of the nearly half alcohol concoction in his glass, but actually only drank that for the duration of the meal. Although I'd said I'd only stay for an hour as I needed to do some shopping, I stayed longer as they didn't want me to go, arguing that we were having a good time so why go shopping as I could go tomorrow? I couldn't argue with such logic!


A lovely meal with Ma Laoban's family

We did leave to go to the tea shop at around 9pm. I hadn't been there before, but it was a friend of Ma Laoban's. We drank some nice "tie guan yin" tea that I'd had recently at Ma Laoban's shop, which was very nice. I then purchased a kettle cum teacup washer plus a few other bits and pieces for 320 kuai. I may well bring it back to the UK as it is pretty nice and practical. We got back and dropped the stuff off at Ma Laoban's shop, and I realised I still had time to get some stuff from the supermarket. In fact Tan rang me at that time to ask me to go and get some milk for Leilei and a doormat for the house, as well as mats for drying your feet outside the bathrooms. So we picked up what we needed, plus a couple of non-slip mats for inside the shower and I took them home before one last trip to Ma Laoban's to pick up the tea stuff and bid him a good night.

Tan fancied some ducks claws, as you do at nearly midnight, so I took the opportunity to take the stuff over to the house, which is becoming more homely by the hour. Back home I could only manage two duck tongues and one duck claw before getting into bed after a long day.

Lack of leccy but far too many meals

True enough, the leccy went some time after 5am and people woke up pretty early due to the enforced humidity. We were all tired but I played with the kids for a bit before taking Leilei out on the bike. After withdrawing some money we went to the tea table place to sort out delivery of our table. The owner looked very busy at the computer as he barely acknowledged us when we entered. I gave him a couple of minutes while we looked at the other wares, and then noticed he was in the middle of a game of online pool, and appeared to be winning. Well I didn't have all day, so I asked him about the delivery (actually I did have all day). He just missed an easy shot into the side pocket and then closed the game - I hoped I hadn't caused the miss. Then he noticed Leilei was here too and showered him with approval. He rang the delivery man and said he was on his way. Then we got chatting again for a few minutes before I asked where the delivery man was, as Pingguo is small enough that 5 minutes is pretty much all you need to traverse it. He rang him again to be told he was nearly there. Roll on nearly 10 minutes later and I had doubts as to whether he knew where he was going. Another phone call and he was "just about to arrive", which he did 5 minutes from then.


The cheerful looking wood artisan shop keeper - cheerful that he'd just made a week's wages or more that morning

It took two blokes to lift the table onto the back of the san lun che pick-up, and they did so without straight backs which is rather non-health and safety, but I thought better of telling them that. I might as well tell the driver to wear a helmet. Then he followed me the two minutes to our new house, and we offloaded it and found out to our collective chagrin that the lack of electricity had hit our place too. He asked what floor we were on, and didn't look to happy when I said "shi si lou" (14th floor), but there was no way I'd expect anyone in their right mind to carry that up one flight, let alone thirteen (here the ground floor is the first floor). So we left it at the bottom and I said thanks. As we left I told the security guard I'd left the table there, and to make sure no-one half-inched it. He looked at me slightly incredulously and said nobody would steal that.


Arriving at our building to find there is no electricity hence no lifts

I unusually had lunch at home with Er jie's husband, and managed a bit of siesta in the heat of the afternoon thanks in part to a post-prandial large G& lemonade. At 5pm Chuan Chuan, Qiqi, Qiqi's dad, Xixi, and myself got ready to go swimming. We picked up Leilei from Nong Kaicheng's house and drove to the place where they are building even more towering blocks on the road to Nanning. There they have an olympic-sized swimming pool and a kiddies' pool with slides and even a see-saw. Although it was supposed to open at 5pm, when we got there at 5.15pm there was a crowd of people, mostly kids in their swimming costumes, waiting outside. It transpired that the pool was being cleaned, and we ended up waiting till 10 to 6 before we were allowed in, by which time there were well over a hundred people. This makes sense as for this month it's free to get in. By the time Leilei and Xixi were having fun with Chuan Chuan it was gone 6pm, and I'd had a phone call earlier in the day from Uncle Yellow inviting me out for a meal at 6.30pm. So I had a dry time, made my excuses and left on foot. I hadn't got as far as the entrance when I got a phone call from A Wu asking where I was. I said I was on my way to meet Uncle Yellow for a meal so he said he'd pick me up in 10 minutes. I said I'd start walking up the road so I'd look out for him.


The kids having fun with Chuan Chuan at the swimming pool - Xixi is on a see-saw

It was a bit of a silly thing to walk up this main road in the blistering sun, and I thought this may be the reason that I suddenly heard men in helmets whistling at me. I stopped, and noticed there were about three of them gesticulating at me to go back to the pool. Had I done something wrong, like trespassing? As I neared the pool I could hear one of them shouting "pao pao!!" which means "run!", which I did as best I could in flip flops. Then I noticed that they had stopped the traffic too. I was a bit worried now as to what I had caused. So I went up to him and asked what was up and he said "pao pao!!" again and pointed up the road. Then I realised he meant "explosion!", and I barely had time to turn around when I heard a loud "boom!" from the other side of a wall, and clods of earth leapt into the air and distributed themselves all over the road. It was fortuitous that they hadn't knocked over the electricity pylon situated a few yards away. Anyway, that was it and we were allowed on our way - no clearing up of the road or anything.

A Wu hadn't turned up and I was nearly home so I gave him a bell and he said "3 minutes" so I told him just to come to the house. I got home 5 minutes later and changed into long trousers and a shirt, before A Wu rang to say he had arrived. I got in the car and we drove up to the guang chang and then turned right instead of left. I explained that the restaurant I was going to was the other way and he said that first we'd go to another place with some police to eat. I told him no, I'd been invited by Uncle Yellow to eat at 6.30pm and it was already that time, but he dismissed it as not important. I forcefully told him to understand that if he wanted me to go to a meal with the police he should have told me before, as Uncle Yellow had when he invited me earlier. So he reluctantly drove me to the restaurant I intended to go to then pointed to the clock on the car, which read "6.40". He said I should eat for one hour and then, at 7.40 call him. I neither agreed nor disagreed, but said I'll call him when finished. Inside room "202" of the restaurant was Uncle Yellow, his wife and a couple of friends I knew from having eaten dog with them back in November 2008. Of course dog was on the menu, and it was very nice too. So was the wild grass, horse, pork, duck and other luxuries. As the meal wore on, the other blokes' wives and sons turned up, which made it more of a family occasion. We had a good time catching up on old things, and I'd forgotten about A Wu, but he dutifully called at 8pm and I told him to wait a few minutes. I was actually stuffed, and didn't really feel like gan bei'ing much more, so I explained that I needed to go and see some police for a bit. They were fine and told me to call them when I'd finished as they might still be there (judging by the amount of food I could believe them).

When we arrived at the large private room with the police and bosses I was greeted by a large cheer from a dozen or so half cut gentlemen. I was led by the arm by who I think was the chief constable, and proceeded to gan bei with every other man in the room (the two women were exempt). I was just grateful that we had the thimble-sized glasses, until I got to the penultimate gentleman who had a normal sized glass, and proceeded to fish one out for me, insisting I down a large one. I somehow managed, then completed my round feeling bloated, and realising that the new chopsticks in front of me would never grip any food in my hands. But, I manfully mustered on through tirades of cai ma much to their delight, until others started to leave. Boss Yang managed to sleep for 40 minutes during all this, then wake up fresh enough to start drinking red wine (with a single ice cube) again. We finally left around 11pm and went back to A Wu's work where we had a little watermelon. Well it was big, but we had a little bit. Tan and the ladies were there. Lin Hong rang Tan to explain that there was a tea table outside the lift at the bottom of the building. I hadn't told her about this as I wanted to surprise her, but had to explain it was my purchase. Apparently there was electricity there, so A Wu took the phone and told Lin Hong to give 10 kuai to a couple of workers and tell them to take it into the house. The ladies left in a san lun che a bit later, not waiting for me as I locked the gate. Probably I smelt a bit of 3% beer.


The meal with police and bosses - the pretty girl in the front is Boss Yang's little sister, Boss Yang is in the green to her right

Alone, at 11.30pm, I wondered the streets for a couple of minutes when it dawned on me that the restaurant I'd left Uncle Yellow in over three hours ago was very close by. On the offchance I gave him a ring and he told me to come over. They were still eating and drinking, and while I could do little of the latter I had a bit of pickled vegetable and chatted to the new blokes who had turned up in my absence. We probably all left well after midnight.

Back home there was still no leccy. Very frustrating as they had said it would be back at midnight. Who "they" are I still don't know - I just get told from time to time that "they" say there will be no electricity tomorrow.... Well Leilei was up, but I got him to sleep easily. But it was very hot so I popped out to the seafood place more for the chance to get an electrically-assisted breeze (yes that side of the road had leccy) than to eat. But it is quite a job to walk the 20 yards there through the various tables without being requested to drink a beer with a bunch of locals. As I hadn't for well over an hour I allowed myself to sit down with some students for just one beer. They seemed grateful that I did so but I politely refused more beer, saying I had to meet some friends. Which was sort of true as the next table I bumped into had some blokes I knew from Bangxu, and we had a bit to eat and drink until the Beijing girl, who is married to one of the locals here came over and told me my friends were waiting at the other table.... So I table-hopped yet again and had to cai ma yet again. I only came out for a breeze and I came back at 2am rather the worse for wear. Then, magically the air conditioning sparked into life, just as I was dropping off. Oh, the relief...I slept a full three hours until...I remember the moment clearly...it stopped again at 6am. Just like that no bloody leccy again.

A Wu's office opening and my own tea table

Took bike out for a spin on my own during mid-morning, and spent some time in a shop that sold beautiful wooden tea tables, among other hand-crafted wooden cultural things such as walking sticks and wild animals. I'd seen this place before but was with Tan so had had no chance to spend any time looking properly. I got talking to the owner, and it transpired he had done all the work itself. Some of the larger tables had prices on - 6800 kuai for an average size (for this place) sample - I asked how long it took to make one of the bigger ones that was on sale for nearly 20000 kuai and he said "20 days". Not bad if you can sell regularly enough. He didn't seem busy, other than playing computer games, and was happy to speak to a foreigner. He explained that some time ago a westerner had come to his shop asking the prices, and had to communicate by typing numbers into his mobile phone.

I stayed a good twenty minutes and rather liked a couple of the smaller tables, that I thought would be a good fit in our new house. The smallest was 1000 kuai, and the next one up 1500. The 1500 one was particularly nice as it had a couple of places you could put stuff like packs of tea or an ashtray, not that I will allow smoking in our new place. I left saying I was interested and would come back with a friend some time.

As there was still a little time before lunch I popped down to see Xixi at Jiuma's place. She has recently been spending a lot of time with her friend Lala, who is a couple of years older. It's nice to see her developing friendships without hitting the other party.

Xixi and Lala playing on some very safe looking stairs

I got home around midday and was immediately called by A Wu saying I should come to his office immediately as there was something important. It transpired that that it was his office's official opening, after having been decorated. It was now resplendent with a large, dark desk with accompanying accoutrements such as a phallic black stone about 20" high and an elephant figurine, but most importantly, there was the money-counting machine taking equal pride of place with the laptop. There were already about ten people inside, half of whom I guessed were the wives of other bosses. They were all sitting on a couple of sofas and other chairs, around a table with a tea set on it, drinking pu er cha and eating slices of watermelon. Over the next 20 minutes more people congregated before we finally decided to went to eat. Tan, who had previously said she wouldn't go, had told A Ni that she now would, so I got on the bike to pick her up from Lao Ma's salon where she'd just had her fringe trimmed. As she was wearing a dress, she sat side saddle with me perched on the front of the seat with my knees sticking out at right angles as they wouldn't fit in otherwise. We got to the place where I normally eat when I meet A Wu and his bosses near his work. It is a rather understated restaurant, not expensive at all, but they do a fantastic "ku cai chao ji dan" (sour greens with fried egg) and pork ribs. We ate and drank well over the course of the following two hours, and I even left early as I needed a kip. I told A Wu about the tea table I'd looked at earlier and he said he also wanted to get one, so he'd take me back in the evening.

Totally unposed pic of me doing business with A Wu in his newly-opened office under the watchful gaze of a tall, dark phallus

A Wu's fancy money counting machine in full swing, next to his large black phallustone

I managed a broken three hours' sleep. Broken by just about everyone in the house - Leilei wanting this, Tan wanting that, Chuan Chuan asking why there was no Internet. The Internet thing was a pain. It had been out since yesterday evening so we called China Telecom and got someone to come out and look. He found out that some place outside our house but within our complex had no electricity, hence the wires weren't working, so he simply turned it back on. Sounds too simple to me. But it was good to have it back, although I made the mistake of checking my emails and ended up doing some work for an hour or two.

At 7pm I called Tan, who was in the new house - apparently it had been cleaned and was nearly ready. The beds had arrived and had been put up, as had the bed lights. All that was remaining was for the curtains to be put up which would happen tomorrow. So I went and had a look and it's actually looking more like a home now. There were various women there for some reason, so I made my excuses and left a few minutes later, leaving Xixi there. I got home to do a tad more work, then Waipo arrived with Xixi, fast asleep. She was concerned as she hadn't eaten, but she's been eating ok so I told her to let her sleep for the night. I then got another call from A Wu who said he was outside and would take me to the tea table shop as he'd said before. I'd forgotten about that and thought he had too. So we went to the place at around 9pm. A Wu agreed that a smaller one would be better for our place, but was unable to get any discount from the owner. In the end I thought that 1500 kuai was less than I would have expected to pay for such a nice table, so I took the slightly bigger one. Or rather I told him to keep it till tomorrow as I had no cash or means to take it to the house. He told me it was "Ji chi mu", which translates to "Chickenwing wood", and I don't yet know what that really means. Anyway it's mine now and I'm very happy about it.

View from where I would sit while pouring tea for my friends

Front side of the tea table

Top view of the table - I think I may call it "Running Dog"

We drove to pick up some watermelons. As A Wu was haggling I stepped out of the car and bought a pack of 10 toilet rolls (individually wrapped for good reason - they would get wet when left in the shower room otherwise). I then went next door and bought a nice sun hat for 4 kuai, and a cool rechargeable torch for 8 kuai. After getting his watermelons we drove another 50 yards, where he went to get a spare key cut for the padlock that locks in his car at his office. I took the opportunity to step out again and buy a couple of jin of Long yan fruit. This translates to "Dragon eye". For some reason they haven't yet found their way to the UK (as most other fruits have), as they are particularly delicious. A Wu complained that eating such fruits in such hot weather would make you come out in spots, but after he tried one it didn't stop him gouging himself for the next few minutes... The key was taking longer than expected to cut, and A Wu noticed 2-1 with a couple of friends having some barbeque so I joined them for a quick game of cai ma and some nice chicken lungs.

I went home to look after Leilei but hadn't eaten anything other than chicken lungs so was rather hungry by the time he got to sleep at 11pm. I decided to get some bbq so went to the place opposite the guang chang that Tan's aunty runs. This is one of the only two bbq places she will normally go to. Well it just so happened as I turned up she was with Lin Hong and her husband - they had just finished so I was just in time to take her home. Finally got out of the house and back to the bbq place half an hour later, where I met Bi Laoban and a couple of others who took delight in cai ma'ing with me while I waited for my ten duck tongues, ten beef and five "fei niu" (fat cow - I think it's a mixture of fat and meat but it is delicious if not especially healthy). I also ate with them so wasn't too hungry by the time my bbq was ready. As it was around midnight Bi Laoban and the others had to go. I took 90% of the bbq I'd just bought back home and put it in the fridge. Chuan Chuan was there and said that she thought there would be no electricity tomorrow from 5am till midnight. Just what I needed. At least she told me so I could charge up anything that needed charging.

Anti-Japanese seafood boss

Tan said she was going to Nanning tomorrow as Lin Hong had said that furniture would be cheaper there. So Jiuma had arranged to take the kids to Bangxu for a couple of days. All without my knowledge of course. Well, the kids duly went at 6pm, and then at 10pm came back as they weren't prepared to stay the night there without one or both of their parents.

It took some time to get the kids to sleep as they must have slept on the bus. But when they did I went out to get a little bbq and then see the boss of the seafood place. He was pretty plastered even by his standards, and made me sit at a table with him alone, launching into a tirade of why he hates the Japanese. There is something about alcohol that really brings out the racist in people. I tried to say that this generation of Japanese had nothing to do with the war, and explained the similarities with Germany and how that attitude was so old hat. He nodded as though he understood what I was saying. Then he said, "Xiao Peng, if you walk into my restaurant I welcome you! But if a Japanese man walked in here I'd kill him!". I just gave up. Too tired to argue, I offered him some bbq but he hardly touched it.

Raw prawns

Although didn't get to sleep till after 5am I decided to wake up before 10am. I got Leilei dressed then took him out to Nong Kaicheng's house to play, as Xixi was already out and I wanted some time at home too. It was very nice to not have to work, and I nearly did nothing for a while before realising that this is criminal in this country when I have such a short amount of time left. So I popped out on the bike and rather predictably met up with A Wu and a couple of bosses for a meal, before getting in A Wu's pickup and driving to the west of the town to pick up a couple of containers of oxygen and one of something else for his work. As A Wu was paying I went for a wander and found a couple of the locals playing chess outside as you do. I marvel at how much time people seem to have here. It transpired that one of the blokes owned the shop next to where they were playing, which looked like it had barely seen a customer for weeks. I found a packet of what looked like cucumber flavoured crisps and bought a couple before I could hear A Wu calling me. Despite the monosodium glutomate, they were ok, having the texture of those prawn shell crisps and actually tasting rather cucumbery.

We then drove to A Wu's work to drop off the gas canisters and pick up some money. Then there was the normal boss work of talking to some of the employees, while a couple of them were manually removing a drill bit from the caterpillar digger in order to put on a scoop bit. The whole operation must have taken 20 minutes and I wondered if it couldn't have been a lot quicker.

Loading the oxygen canisters onto the pickup

Back in town I was anxious to see how the house was getting on as I heard the floor was mostly done. Indeed, it was a bit of an epoch in the whole decoration process as it has made the biggest difference since the walls were painted white!

The wooden floor in the living room

Somehow I didn't have time for tea, but it was ok as we had been invited to take Leilei and Xixi to Boss Yang's son's ninth birthday party in the KTV place by the guang chang. I didn't get there till 9pm as I had to pick up some stuff from the supermarket, and I was starving. Unfortunately though, there were only nibbles as the ladies had already finished the noodles. Some more were ordered but by this time Xixi was getting fractious as she'd not slept today. So, back on the bike to take her home, where Waipo took care of here while I went back. I was slightly disappointed to see that the noodles were of the instant type, but I was more hungry and managed a bowl before being dragged off to play cai ma with other dads. I do really like this game, but it is difficult in a blooming karaoke bar with all the kids singing. At the time of the birthday cake they put on the "Happy Birthday" song with a video of a hideous overly smiling girl singing Happy Birthday first in Mandarin and then in English ("Happy Birssday to you...").

Party People

I got a call from Lu Hai around 10pm asking me to come to eat "Xia sheng", or raw prawns, so I said I should be able to make it, but it would be later. Leilei got flakey around half ten so that was a good excuse for Tan to take him home, and I made my way an hour later, explaining that I'd had little sleep, and pointing out that the birthday boy had fallen asleep on the couch and wasn't it time for him to go home too?

I wasn't really prepared for what I would eat a few minutes later at the seafood place. Lu Hai was still there, with the boss, and when they said raw prawns they meant raw prawns. The boss fished out a few into a bowl and set it on our table. I looked incredulously as he plucked one out with one hand, then twisted off its head, ripped off its still running legs and its shell, dipped it for a second or two in the ginger vinegar and ate it. No more than five seconds from water to stomach. He liked the effect it had on my shocked face, and then, as if to show off, did it again only quicker and without even dipping the grey glistening flesh in the vinegar.

Well, from my first time in Pingguo in November 2003 I have seen some strange things eaten here. I may have been a little shocked but I've had pig's penis, duck tongue, pig's eyeballs and raw fish, but this was a first. I didn't think I would do it but buoyed on by the beers from the KTV, and knowing that such an opportunity would likely not arise again for some time, I gritted my teeth, pulled out a prawn from the bowl and managed to hold on to it for all of a second before it skipped into the air, bounced on the table and flailed to the floor. It got a laugh at least. On my second attempt I kept hold of it but it took a couple of seconds to yank the head off. Not only the body, but the head was still moving. Lu Hai's son Chen Chen took the head to play with I think, while I wrestled with the body. I just know it's easier to remove the legs when they're boiled. Finally, when still, I was able to remove the shell and tail before leaving it a good ten seconds in the vinegar to "seal" it. It was, though, particularly delicious, and I ended up having a few more before the night was out.

My attempts to eat a raw prawn

A rather angry looking prawn

Buying furniture

In the morning I went out with Tan and Lin Hong to look at furniture. Next door to the furniture place was a shop that sold tea tables carved out of a single piece of wood. I really wanted to go in and have a look but the ladies had sofas and wardrobes on their minds. We couldn't find a suitable sofa (it is arguable that we need to get one now as we're leaving in two weeks), so we looked at wardrobes as we'll need at least one to leave some clothes in this year. As the ladies found one they liked (I wasn't going to enter in the debate for this - a wardrobe is a wardrobe in my book), my only input was to ask the width of our bedroom. Lin Hong said it was 360cm. As we already had a bed and two side tables bought from this shop, I was able to measure them and calculate what space would be available for the wardrobe. It transpired that it would fit, just, but that you wouldn't be able to open the left hand side door. So I told Tan that it was a nice wardrobe but that it wouldn't fit unless we put it opposite our bed rather than on the side.

Happly couple in the house before shopping for furniture

What happened next is one of the reasons I'll never understand some people. I thought I was trying to help by working out beforehand any potential problems with the purchase, but it was seen as though it was my fault. So I was told that because the bedroom was so small that we'd have to put up with the compromise of one door not being openable and we'd have to reach around. This is wrong on so many accounts. Just get a smaller wardrobe, or put it in another place, or move the bedside table. But no, it's like you cannot change your idea of where something will go even if it doesn't fit. I didn't have the heart to argue, but equally I didn't want to have a crippled wardrobe, so we left it and went to look at a shoe cabinet. Well this should be simple. In Chinese homes, like many East Asian homes, it is normal to take off your shoes on entry and put on a pair of rubber slippers. Normally you leave your shoes on the floor, but if you live there you probably have more than one pair, so you keep these in the "xie gui". This is normally about 3x3' near the door entrance. But with our house as you step in on the left is immediately the door to my study and on the right is the living room, and about two feet of wall before the kitchen doorway. We decided that it would be nice to put the xie gui on the right sticking out so that there was some sort of corridor leading to the bedrooms area, but the problem was that the back of the xie gui would be visible to all sitting in the living area, and I wasn't happy about that as it was rather unsightly. We then found something perfect for the job; a cabinetty like thing with space for shoes, that had drawer openings on both sides, and display cabinets for stuff like bottles of wine and flowers. It looked made for the job, and it was nice that two women and a man could agree on something.

The other piece of furniture that is obligatory in new apartments here (at least in Pingguo), is a long tv stand (even if most modern, flat tvs now are wall mounted). These are normally 8-10' in length, by about 20" in width, and accommodate more than just a tv. They normally have shallow shelves and drawers to keep things like phone chargers and whatnot. I wasn't too fussed in this regard; we had enough space on either long wall, and the decision would mainly be which wall to put the sofa against and which wall to have the tv on. The other accompanying pieces of furniture would be a coffee table, and a sofabed and table/chair for my study.

So we went to the other furniture shop in the blazing late morning heat to look at sofas. The one Tan likes is a fake black and white leather that is much more tasteful than it might seem. As is the case with almost all sofas here, it is an "L" shaped affair, with and extra armless cushion like part that can be put anywhere. Unfortunately, though this had been on discount the last time Tan had seen it, it was not now. The last time, she had rung me to ask if we could borrow the money from Lin Hong to buy it as it was on special offer, and I had said yes. I don't know why we didn't get it at that time, and I should know better than to ask, but the long and short of it was that it was now nearly 10000 kuai, and not the 5000 it had been last week. Well, after some negotiation, which included the shop assistant ringing the sofa factory, it appeared we could get it for 5800. During these negotiations I kept a stern face; it is not good to appear too eager when trying for a discount, but Tan read it as apathy on my part, and even though I said we could get it it ended up in an argument for some reason. I'd had enough, and I needed to get on with my work so I drove off, picked up a bite to eat and went home.

The faux leather sofa we both quite like

Around 4.30pm I got a call from Lin Hong, who said we'd been invited out to eat and she would pick me up at 5.30pm. Just as well I didn't have a meeting then. By gone 6pm I hadn't heard anything but as I started to dial the phone rang telling me to come on foot to the seafood place near our house. Fair enough - I'd been there many a time, but it was not that place I found out, and I spent the next 5 minutes on the phone with Lin Hong giving me directions about which way to turn, until I came into her line of vision. I must say she has excellent eyesight - either that or I am a particularly conspicuous tall, pale-skinned, fair-haired foreigner, ah right.

I'm not sure who it was that invited us but he seemed keen on drinking a few beers, something I couldn't share much as I had work to finish later. Tan and A Ni were there but not kids. There was no talk about the furniture fiasco and we had a nice meal before I politely left to finish off my last working day before holiday!

Door and bathroom...getting there

This week has mainly comprised working till gone midnight, then popping out for a bite of seafood. The kids are out all day with Jiuma or friends, and I've not seen much of them unfortunately. I have been popping in to the house to keep an eye on progress on some days, finally we have some doors.


3rd August - our first interior door


3rd August - Health and Safety not really


Wrong so


5th August - Bathroom looking ok

KTV with kids and cai ma then No 5 Cafe boss's birthday

Not a late start, more like 10am. My head wasn't perfect due to last night so to sort it out I got on the electric bike and stopped 30 seconds later to have a bit of rice at the local eatery. Then I set off on a very rewarding tour of Pingguo that took me to some places I'd not seen before. I realised before long that I was about the only one outside on a bike without an umbrella, and that I was probably getting burnt. So I stopped outside a shop that sold ice-creams and had a 5 mao honeymelon lolly that was very nice if a little sweet. I also found a place that sells paraphenalia for mopeds and enquired about fixing the handlebar I'd somewhat broken while getting home after the World Cup final. Well apparently that couldn't be mended, but I also found that the back numberplate was broken. It's not really a numberplate as you don't need one for an electric bike but it was still broken. So I said I'd like this nice new shiny one to put on the back of the bike so A Ni would be pleased. Problem was the holes were not the right size. Problem? Silly me, get the drill out and make some new ones and fit it. Job done, 10 kuai. And it ends in "5" so A Wu should be happy.

I happened to drive past his office at around 1pm and he happened to be outside and waved me down. As it was lunchtime that meant we would have lunch together. Fair enough. As I parked the bike I showed him the fancy new numberplate. He noticed that a couple of the characters were Japanese and stated "I hate Japanese!!", to which I retorted by pointing at his car and asking why he had bought a Nissan. We all saw the funny side and got in his Zefiro to go to a local place and have a nice meal for only 75 kuai for five of us. I had lent A Wu 100 kuai yesterday to pay a worker, and he remembered so wouldn't let me pay the bill, and gave me the 25 kuai change. I thought about offering it as a tip but remembered even if I tried it wouldn't be accepted. I suppose repeat custom is more important to them (and they certainly get that from us).


Bike's new Japanese numberplate with Leilei about to sneeze

I managed a siesta for a couple of hours so was feeling ok come 5pm. I drove down to Jiuma's place where Xixi spends most of her time and met them there. Lin Hong also came and after a while said she'd take Xixi to the guang chang. That was about the only thing she could do to prise her away from me. Then, after a while, Lin Hong rang me to say that they were going to the KTV place to sing song. As A Wu had already mentioned something about KTV I assumed they would be in the same place. A Wu was aware that I had not been available much the last week so I think wanted to make amends for that.

So Leilei and I turned up at the KTV bar we always go to at around 9pm after copious phone calls with Lin Hong asking where we were and what time we'd be coming. When we arrived we couldn't find the room number she had mentioned, "386", so looked in a couple of ones that sounded close. Then I got a phone call from Chen Hong, or "Brandy" as he likes to be known to English speaking friends - I hadn't seen him for a good year so was looking forward to it. He, apparently, was in another room but it was so noisy I couldn't hear him so I left a text saying I'd ring him later. It took a couple more phone calls with Lin Hong before we realised we were in the wrong KTV place. Fancy that, we've been to the same place every time for the last two or three years and suddenly they go somewhere else. Well, we were to go to the place next to the guang chang, so Leilei and I dutifully got on our bike and drove the two minutes there, where we found Lin Hong outside waiting for us. It was some kind of kids' party with lots of silly songs, but there were a fair few adults (parents I hope), of which some blokes a little the worse for wear intent on making my play cai ma. Well I didn't really mind, and played with them for a bit before my tummy felt too gassy. Then I also saw that Xixi was pretty tired so I made my excuses and said I'd be back a little later after taking her home.

She is such a lovely little lady, and despite the amount of time she spends with Waipo and Jiuma, always loves being with her daddy. We drove home, but no-one was in, so I rang Jiuma and she told us to come to her place in the centre. We did so and although Xixi loves to be on the bike, she was nearly asleep by the time we got there and barely holding on. I had no problem putting her in Jiuma's bed, and after giving her a goodnight kiss, got on the bike back to the KTV place. There were roars when I re-entered, not for any other reason than the roarers being plastered. I used my (true) excuse of being hungry to avoid playing too much cai ma, but that didn't stop the blokes all lining up to play me. They still love it when I win, which somewhat surprises me as as long as you can count in Cantonese with a Bangxu accent there's not much more to it.

By 10.30pm it was Leilei's time to be tired. I made my excuses to wails of disappointment but said I "should" be back a bit later after getting him to sleep. I called Tan and found she was on her way back too, so met her a couple of hundred yards from our place and let Leilei walk home with her and A Xia. I realised I hadn't got back to Brandy, so I gave him a call and he said he was in "Number 5" cafe. As luck would have it, this was not 50 yards from where I was. But Tan, A Xia and Leilei were walking in that direction so I had to sneakily snake behind them without them seeing me lest they suspect I might be going to have some fun.

I pulled up outside "Number 5" as Tan et al had just passed it, and sneaked inside before they could look behind them. Suddenly I heard a huge cheer and shouts of "Peng Duoming!!". The place was steaming and I found out it was the boss's birthday. Boss Yang and most other friends were there, but so was Brandy, and I gave him a big friendly hug as I hadn't seen him for so long. I sat next to him, although had been proffered other chairs by other friends, and explained that "hao jiu bu jian" (long time no see), to which Brandy replied: "miss you much", which suggests some of his English comes from crappy pop songs. Well, they did karaoke and there was plenty of food and drink. It was a good laugh and I got home well after 1am and went straight to bed.


Brandy, me and Number 5 Boss (Coffee?)

Driving A Wu's Sailor

Finally a day of rest. Up lateish and didn't really fancy much lunch so popped out at 1pm to get a couple of small portions of rice wrapped in vine leaves again. Then I remembered I needed a haircut so I drove to Lu Hai's place and got it done. He told me that he was going to the seafood place tonight at 10pm and to meet him there for some succulent raw fish, so I said I would.

I didn't want to waste more of the day than I already had so I leapt on the bike and rode around for a few minutes before thinking "I need a head wash". I thought I'd invite A Wu to go for one too so rang him and he said to go to his new office on the other side of town. Of course things didn't transpire in the order I had planned, but it was Saturday and so ok.

I found his office with no problem, and parked the now dirty bike around the back at the car wash business that is the ground floor of his work. A Ni was there and noticed that the bike (her bike) was quite filthy and said we should get it washed. Fair enough, so I did. We then went to one of the head wash places I really like, but as we settled down for our decadency A Wu noticed that there was no air conditioning. Despite the fact that it wasn't oppressively hot, he steadfastly refused to stay, and so we moved on. I felt a bit bad, but not as bad as the employees there, but it wasn't as if it was their fault. Anyway we drove up 100 yards to a place on the other side of the road where they had electricity and had a sumptious hour making me wonder why we ever go back home. 20 kuai for the expensive shampoo and an hour's delight.

We then went back to A Wu's new office and I was introduced to the pick-up truck that A Wu had bought not three months ago. It was a Chinese dark green affair, branded "Sailor", which seemed slightly inappropriate. However, it was not a bad machine; two rows of seats and decent space at the back for moving stuff around, such as the futon that he'd just bought to go in his office. Additionally, in a move similar to many English and probably American car owners with a little too much extra cash, he had the numberplate "AWU655" - nice touch. ("Wu" also sounds like the number 5, hence the last four digits of his mobile are 5).

We were to go to his work, and he said I could drive his pick-up, maybe because I'd complimented it. Well it was nice to drive a manual vehicle in China for the first time. It was a noisy diesel, but had a bit of power and the gears were well spaced (not too tractor-like). I drove the ten minutes to his work place and only when I tried to drive up the loose-stoned road to his mountain did I discover that it was only rear-wheeled drive and not 4x4. It took a couple of reversing manoeuvres but I managed to get my Sailor up the hill and into A Wu's work. We stayed there for over an hour as he talked to his workers and took the day's takings from his older brother who I think now works there. It's hard to work out exactly how much is made per day/month as I don't hear about tax. But it looks like he can get from 10k to 50k kuai a day depending on what company is buying what type of stone from him. Typically I think it's 10k, and then he has to pay the workers. Again, it's hard to know exactly but drivers seem to get 2000 kuai per month and the digger drivers 2500. There are indubitably more people on the payroll but I get the impression the wages are good compared to other labourers, but a smaller fraction of the profits than perhaps elsewhere. You do have to counter that with the fact that if it rains for a day there is no work - people still get paid but you can't crush the stones for some reason. I did ask about the logistics of putting a cover over the whole plant but it would cost a bomb and probably blow away as soon as a big wind came. Speaking of which the wind had started blowing and precipitation looked not far away.


A Wu and his Sailor - note the numberplate

After more conversations, and a dry game of cai ma I played with one of the workers (another of whom drank the white alcohol when I lost), we finally got back in the pick-up and headed back to Pingguo. I'd told A Wu about the "Shui Shang Ren Jia" restaurant I'd visited last weekend with Xixi and we decided to have a look there. As I parked the car he rang some government official and found that he happened to be there just at that time. For some reason he was embarrassed and we walked around the outside of the place for five minutes before actually entering, why I will probably never know. But when we did enter we found a group of ten or so men sitting around the table that Xixi and I had taken pictures at last week. Most of the food had gone, as had a couple of dozen beer bottles. But as soon as they saw us (me?) they ordered fresh bowls and glasses and we ate and drank more than good men should in the two hours we spent there. One of the blokes was particularly half-cut. I found out he was the main government official of a town just outside Bangxu, but was here with his son. What irked me was that despite his level of inebriation he beat me at cai ma. In fact others did too so I had to call timeout as the fizz was getting to me. We managed to leave at around 9pm.

A Wu had had some beers too, so let me drive his pick-up to our house, which I did impeccably at a slow pace. At 10.15pm I got a call from Lu Hai asking where I was and I said I'd be at the seafood place in 5 mins. When I arrived 10 minutes later he was just arriving himself. Oh, the food was very good...lots of raw fish that you dip in a vinegarry, oily sauce, and add peanuts too. Glad I didn't eat too much at the other place. A Wu made his excuses and left after half an hour, but there were plenty of friends, and the owner and boss, to keep us company till the early hours. I went home knackered, but happy to have had a day of leisure.

Rude awakenings from the guang chang

At 4am I still couldn't sleep, so I decided as I'd paid for it, and it was comfortable, that I'd go back to the hotel in case the electricity went again in a couple of hours. So much for that idea. When I got there shortly after 4am I was peckish and asked for a bite to eat but was told there was nothing. I'd just driven past some outdoor bbq places where there were still a few tables filled with late night eaters/drinkers but I couldn't be bothered being asked to drink at that time, so I accepted a bottle of water and thought about the good it would do my expanding belly. Actually it was not so bad that I came back as I'd left all my toiletries there. Although I got to sleep soon after 4am, I hadn't counted on the noise emanating from the guang chang area come 8am. Thumping bass leapt through the single glazing and punched my ears to let me know that four hours' sleep was all I was to be allotted yet again. I groggily looked out of the window to find that it appeared to be a new shop opening rather than the guang chang making this offensive racket. That is not the sort of thing that makes me want to shop there.

So I though "bollocks", packed my stuff (properly this time, including toiletries) and checked out. I remembered that there might be police around and put my helmet on in the humid heat and picked up a few breakfast buns and a couple of cups of soya drink for the kids before getting home. I found that the kids and Tan had just woken up and were ready to eat so it was a good time to get home. But I still had work to do so I settled down to that for around three hours as Tan took the kids out. Come 1pm I was really tired. Even though I wasn't particulary hungry I went to one of my local eateries, where I normally get the chang fen, but this time asked for a couple of vine leaves wrapped around rice containing some animal fat. They were actually quite nice, and I ate them as I hoped they would help me sleep. Also I bought a can of beer for that purpose. Later at home I had another beer and was ready for a siesta not long later that took me from 2.30 to 5pm - much needed.

Lots of work until 10pm when the electricity went again while I was talking to Boss Yang who was trying to invite me somewhere. I don't know why the electricity going would cut our call but it seemed to. I sorted out torches and candles with Tan, and made sure she was ok with the kids before Yang gave me a ring again and said he was coming to pick me up. Well I was happy with that - family asleep and work nearly finished after another very long week. Although he picked me up in his car, we only drove 100 yards to No. 5 cafe that was also sans electricite to pick up Boss Bi, who is also a regular fixture at our gatherings. Then we drove back to our house where we got out and went to the seafood place I have been frequenting frequently recently.

Thanks to having set up internet on my phone I was able to chat with colleagues at work to explain the lack of electricity and give them an update on how things were going. So once that was sorted I settled down to some seafood delights and a couple of well-deserved beers with Boss Yang and his wife, son, and various others. Normally going to the toilet takes one minute for a bloke. But this time it took half an hour as I was requested by some Bangxu bloke who knew me to sit at his table for a few minutes and have a drink with his friends. Then, once I'd made my excuses and parted from them the owner of the seafood place made me sit down with him and a couple of other mates for some more gan bei'ing. I got home at 2.30am quite full.

Staying at the hotel for electricity

I had been warned that there would be no electricity today from 5am till late at night. However it was only in our area of Pingguo and the hotel would have some, so I would go there to work. I did not actually manage to sleep at all overnight, but I was just dropping off at 6am when my body noticed it was hotter than it should have been. I looked up and realised that the air conditioning unit was no longer working. And as it was dawn it dawned on me that the electricity had gone. It wasn't so hot I couldn't sleep, but I thought I'd take advantage of being awake to go to check that Pingguo International Hotel did have leccy. Well it did, and I asked the nice ladies at reception what was the earliest time I could check in. I gathered it was midday, so I thanked them and drove back to the house and slept a couple of hours till 11am.

A Ni used to work at the Pingguo Internation Hotel, and had some friends there, so I rang her to ask if I could get a "special price". Of course I could, I just had to ask Xiao Huang. So I turned up at 12pm, dirty and smelly and ragged haired as I hadn't had a shower (the boiler at our place is electrically heated). Xiao Huang was there and had a particularly pretty and genuine smile. A Ni had already called her to arrange the room for me and I just had to present my passport and hand over the 150 kuai. 15 quid is very good as the room was very tasteful, lending a magnificent view of the guang chang, and having an interesting feature I've only ever seen in Chinese hotels: there is a clear glass separating the main room from the shower so you can ensure your loved one is washing him/herself correctly. However, in this place your loved one had the option of closing a blind to avoid your lechorous eyes.

I needed a bite to eat, so I thought I'd step out and find a local place. As the hotel is very close to Boss Yang's office, I popped inside to see if he wanted to join me. Unwise move if you only fancy a quick bite. I found him and other bosses in another boss's room drinking tea. They bade me sit down and share a couple of glasses of "pu er cha" and I didn't resist, except to say that I would only have a couple as I needed to have a bite to eat, get back and shower and have a siesta. Well it transpired it was 12.30pm so they all decided it was time to eat. We got in a couple of cars; four bosses, and a lady, and drove a roundabout route to go to a restaurant that has just opened next to the kids' school by the guang chang.

We arrived and it looked dark. Immediately we asked if there was no electricity, and the waitress turned on the lights as if to say "yes there is", although it would have been quicker to actually say "you dian ah". We asked for the biggest private room, and while sitting down, three other blokes came in who were apparently other bosses from a tree-felling company outside of Pingguo, who were involved in business with Boss Yellow. A Wu also turned up, so there were around ten of us all told. Of course, as there were new people around we had to gan bei with them a few times, and with my lack of sleep it made me a little tipsy eventually. But I was amazed to hear that apparently all the bottles of 600ml Qingdao beers were 1 kuai each - a special offer that was to last a week in celebration of the new opening of the restaurant. I wasn't quite sure whether to believe it or not, and I thought better than to question A Wu's statement in front of his boss-friends.

The meal was actually very good in the end, though it started somewhat badly when all the bosses complained about the oily table surface - which triggered a few waitresses with tissues to start rubbing it down (that sounds like a sentence ripe for miscontruction). It was nice to speak to some Pingguo outsiders, as I could explain to them a bit about our culture and language. Weird to think I can actually do something like that now.

I left before most of the others did, citing work, and walked across the guang chang in the lovely 2pm heat. The only people I saw at this time were young couples in the early stages of romance, holding hands or sitting on a bench together. It's not very seemly to do this in public apparently, but in such heat most sane people are at home in the shade, and love doesn't make you sane. But fatigue does, and I managed a quick shower finally before getting into the firm if comfortable bed in my room and grabbing three hours' sleep. I awoke at 5.30pm and started to catch up on work again, only to be called by Tan at 6pm that we had been invited to eat by Lao Pan and to be at the restaurant in 20 mins. I didn't mind, so got there at 6.30pm and stayed for no more than an hour with just six of us, before making my excuses and going home to work for a bit. But then Tan turned up needing her mobile charged and stayed for a good half an hour.

The electricity came back in the evening, earlier than expected, so I went home at about midnight. Due to a late start I worked till 3am. There was a lot to get through.

Locals at my local

Busy busy day, but I stopped at half midnight and went out for a bite to eat at the seafood place again that is definitely my local now. I ordered some fried sweetcorn and an octopus (again), and as I waited I was called over by a bloke from a table of eight men looking rather the worse for wear. As he called my by my name ("A Ming" is one of my monikers here), I went over to say hello and have a glass of beer with them. Well it ended up being more than just a glass, but they were good company and very jovial as we joked about Bangxu. One of the things that brings many of us together is the fact that we're married to Bangxu women. There is always a belly laugh when I recite a phrase that is quite common among Bangxu men: "Tian xia bu pa, di shang bu pa, jiu pa Bangxu lao po!" ("I fear nothing under the sky, I fear nothing on the ground, I only fear Bangxu wife!").

The boss of the seafood place didn't want to serve my food at the table I was sitting at as he whispered to me that the blokes had drunk a lot. Without being rude, I excused myself to say I'd eat with some other friends I'd planned to earlier, and they were all fine, after gan bei'ing a final time.

Of course the sweetcorn and octopus was delicious, but the boss had also brought a portion of raw fish. At least that was the name of the dish. It looked raw, and had the consistency of raw fish, but it was rather hot. Anyway, it was very salty but very tasty too, and at 2.30am we said our farewells, and the boss's wife would only take 30 kuai from me for all the food and drink.

Being stopped by the friendly police

Missing breakfast for the 40th time out of the 48 or so days I've spent here I fancied a bite to eat at midday. Tan had had something so I went by myself to a nice place that does sliced sausage with rice and greens. I had one of those crap experiences here. When you think you're fine at the language and then something unexpected turns up that makes you realise you're a lifetime away from mastering it. The woman plonked a huge bowl of soup on my table, filled mostly with greens. I asked "isn't this meant to be sausage?", and she replied that there was meat inside. I gathered that I'd ordered incorrectly and poured myself a bowl of the soup that looked tasty, but not filling, promising to myself that I'd learn how to order food properly next time.

Then to my relief the waitress came and said she was sorry but she'd made a mistake. Phew. I poured the soup back into the bowl and a couple of minutes' later I was served with what I was expecting. Big relief. However, after the meal my gut was not feeling too good. I got on the electric bike and intended to pick up my trainers from the shoe cleaning shop but I noticed a group of 8-10 policemen 20 yards down the road in that direction - they seemed to be pulling people over for no discernable reason. Rather than risk geting a criminal record for something like non-insurance or whatever, I pointed the bike home and went there instead.

Tan got a call from A Hua when I arrived, asking her to go to her place to have lunch, as is normal now. So she took a quick shower and an hour later was ready to go out. I offered to take here as it is now quite hot again and I didn't want her burning in the sun waiting for a san lun che. We got on the bike (luckily she was wearing nice short shorts so she was able to sit astride properly rather than side-saddle), and made our way to A Hua's place.

When we were nearly there one of a dozen policemen jumped out into the middle of the road and bade us stop. How silly of me, I'd completely forgotten about them. Even Tan admitted she should have told me they were around today. Anyway we were pulled over by a smiling gendarmerie who pointed to my head and said "hat". We played ignorant (which wasn't hard as we were) and were told that by law we needed to wear a helmet on such a vehicle. So we had to leave the bike there and get a helmet. Well for Tan it was ok as she was 2 minutes from A Hua's place, but I needed to get back so I asked the simple question "Where can I buy a helmet?". The policeman answered in English "I don't know". This struck me as quite surprising as they must have stopped dozens of non-helmet-donning locals today.

Tan and I left the bike to walk towards A Hua's place, and came across a friend of hers who'd just pulled up on her motorbike. She was quite butch, but offered me her helmet so that I could ride to the shops that sold bikes and get a helmet for myself. I said thank you very much but I didn't fancy wearing another person's sweat for any period of time (I didn't actually say that to her). So Tan said I'd need to walk 5 minutes to get a helmet. This I disagreed with but didn't tell her and left her walking to A Hua's place. I then doubled back and went to the hardware store near the market that I tend to go to for my electric goods needs. I asked the bloke if he had a "tou kui" and he said "dui", leapt upstairs and produced a fine-looking red helmet for 15 kuai. Very cheap in my opinion though who knows about the quality? I told the bloke that there were a dozen policemen stopping people without helmets, and that I would tell these policemen to tell prospective customers to come to his shop, so he had better put some on display - he could make a mint! He looked at me as though I'd just said something in German, so I explained that he could make money by selling his helmets to people stopped by the police for not having one, but he still seemed to not think this was important to his business. Maybe it just was not, but I can't imagine such a thing back home...I would have set up a stall by the police selling helmets for 30 kuai each.

Anyway the helmet fitted fine, was adjustable, and had a chin strap. I took it back to the police and we all had a laugh about it. I still think they could be more effective by having, say, two groups of five, rather than one group of ten. But it was refreshing to be able to talk to a policeman on a human level.

A bit later I ventured out to pick up my cleaned trainers. On the way back I passed the policemen again, safe in the knowledge I had my new helmet on. As I pulled up to the traffic lights I noticed a young lady on an electric bike next to me. She reached down to her feet to pick up a yellow helmet that she wore for all of six seconds as she drove past the policemen, then immediately removed it and placed it back on the floor between her legs. Ingenious?

Smoking doctors

Another busy day. Tan was feeling ill and hadn't slept so I got the kids to bed at a late hour while she slept. Well Xixi was too excited as she'd had a siesta so I left her with Waipo, but I finally got Leilei to sleep at midnight.


I tried in vain to get them to sleep in the living room at 10pm...

I was peckish so popped out for a bite to eat ten minutes later. How predictable - I got a call from Tan saying Leilei had woken up and where was I? Well fair e-bloody-nough, I'd stopped working to look after the kids and I deserved a break. I had just bumped into some people I'd met last year when Leilei and I went to Tian Dong to taste the most delicious mangos in the world. I had to say goodbye after a few minutes to attend to my son. Then when I got home a minute later I found him asleep with Tan anyway, so I thought "fair enough" and I popped back out to talk to the guys. Four of them were doctors (three of whom had the same surname "Huang", or "Yellow"). They were all drinking and smoking and I made some jokes about "doctor's orders" which they seemed to find funny.

We chatted till gone 1am, and they loved that fact that I could speak a few words of the local language. Apparently I will be invited to drink beer with them this weekend - as I told them I was too busy during the week.