Really the last time going back in 2019

It was strangely easier than I expected getting up at 5 and grabbing a quick shower, though annoyingly I couldn’t find my razor for a shave. Outside at the coach stop I bought some jiao zi to have as breakfast for 6 kuai which were nearly as good as the Pingguo ones, and caught the 5.45 bus and it arrived 30 minutes later at the airport, justifying my decision to go a bit later than the suggested 5.30am.

For once my check-in experience in Nanning went without a hitch, and I took the VIP security quickly, but for some reason I only had about 10 minutes in the lounge before the flight was apparently boarding. So appropriating a lemonade I went to gate 21 and indeed I was one of the last on, even though it was just gone 7.30. I managed the first half of the 1h20 minute flight like a man but then, just as the notice came on to say we were starting our final descent (were there more than one?) my innards started talking to me in a way I didn’t like. I’d managed a poo at the airport but I knew at the time it was no way enough, but I wasn’t ready for how short I would be caught.

Every minute that went past felt like an eternity. I even tested this by playing Boggle on my phone (also to get my thoughts away); I did much better than usual due to the slow seconds giving me more time to think. The only problem was some of the words that I was coming up with like “dash”, “smear”, “failed”, “faints”, “fat”, “tensed”, “tender”, “tense”, “rocks”, and “loser” (not “looser”) all seemed to take on a meaning appropriate to my situation and didn’t take my mind off it at all. I contemplated running to the loo even though they’d been closed but didn’t want to break aviation rules. I remembered how Gerard Depardieu had been arrested for weeing into a water bottle when his flight had been delayed while they were on the tarmac, and remember thinking at the time what could he have done? He wasn’t allowed to go to the loo yet the flight was still on the ground. My situation was many times worse, and not getting better.

The last 20 minutes went from agony to excruciation, and I barely noticed the turbulence. I had planned to go in the front of the plane. At least when we were allowed to stand up there was a tiny but noticeable reduction in the pressure that lasted for a couple of minutes, but it took an age before we actually started to move down the aisle, and I found that there was no toilet there. Damn, for some reason when you think there is one it’s like you’re mentally ready to go, but now I had to stop that thought. What a long walk it was in the airport scuttling past as many people as possible until I finally saw a toilet sign.

What I hoped would be relief turned to disgust when I saw the only cubicle that was open had a squatter, and not only that it was filled with brown water. I calculated that I didn’t have much time, and went in anyway. I closed the door and thought I was in the Chinese version of Trainspotting - the most disgusting loo in China. I pushed the flush thing thinking it might help the situation and instead the water level rose and came up to the floor. Oh shit! Literally. I contemplated going anyway but then thought of the consequences of splashbacks and the fact I had a 12 hour flight to negotiate. I couldn’t. I opened the door and walked out saying in a very audible voice that it was disgusting. I then had a five minute walk to baggage reclaim where eventually there was another toilet sign. The place was packed and I had to wait. Well I should have queued properly but to my shame when a door opened next to me I darted in (I didn’t feel shame at the time). Yes it was a squatter, but it wasn’t flooded and I just managed to pull down my trousers to let out the most relieving poo I think I ever will have. I even squatted there for a couple of minutes after just to enjoy the relaxation, and reminded myself that Andge finished a round of Angry Birds squatting on a loo at Waipo’s in 2009.

Revolting but I just couldn't go

I knew I hadn’t got it all out but it was enough that I could walk like a new man, almost smiling in my relief in a sort of Mr Bean manner, before picking up my checked bag, as I’d checked in the zong zi. I was in good time for the next check-in to London, and saw that it would start at 10.35. So I paid another visit to the loo and this time waited for a proper sitting one, but nothing more would come, and I hoped I hadn’t somehow constipated the rest of it up inside me somewhere. Outside, check-in numbers still hadn’t come up so I decided to ask and the woman said 65-67. Cool - I got there and waited until someone else started queuing before asking her if she was queuing for London, to which she answered in the affirmative.

But 10.35 came and went, but nothing happened until well gone 11am. This was frustrating because I knew there would be various immigration and customs to go through, and I wouldn’t have much time in the lounge despite being one of the first to check in. And indeed there were at least three queues to go through before security where they scanned my laptop bag three times, each time taking more and more stuff out until finally they found a tiny screwdriver. I explained what it was and how I needed it to tighten up the screws in my laptop, but it was one of those situations where the security person had decided she would definitely win, “win” meaning removing something from my possession, and it was to be the screwdriver, which had been through dozens of security checks (many of which in China) before. I was more annoyed at the waste of time, but at least the lounge was opposite, and the gate only 30 seconds away from that.

Yeah I expected only beer, but it was better than nothing and I helped myself to two or three as it was the afternoon now anyway. Actually maybe it was three or four as suddenly we were boarding. This didn’t take long, which gave me hope. I’d been given an aisle seat as requested and there was a space between me and the window seat occupant. Rather annoyingly the Italian male air host spoke fluent Mandarin, but I decided not to indulge him in it. When boarding was complete I asked if I may move to one of the rows with three empty seats and he said it would have to wait until we were in the air and the seatbelt signs were off. I said I guessed it was because they flight had been balanced like this and he said yes. I didn’t start the questioning as to why it would be ok to unbalance it once in the sky. I highly doubt the balancing is just for takeoff.

It was a modern 787 Dreamliner like the one I’d taken back a few weeks ago from Wuhan, but not quite as empty as that flight, so I had my concerns others might get to one of the empty rows before me. So I had my bag and headphones at the ready and the second the seatbelt sign went out I went to the middle row after the bulkhead and threw down my hoodie over two of the seats, and my bag on the other, before going for a well-needed wee. On my return I was happy to see they were still there, and I plonked myself down in the middle seat, hoping this would be a sign for anyone looking to lie down that this would not be the appropriate row.

The film selection was a bit crap, and yet again I watched 90% of a film without remembering it. Probably due to the phenergan and a couple of glasses of white wine with the meal. With that I blanketed myself up, ensuring the seatbelt was visible, and lay down until there were 1791 miles to go. I’d managed about six hours of non-stop sleep. Say what you will about having a couple of drinks, but the health of getting that much sleep surely counteracts the negative effects of the booze.

I think I even dozed off a bit more after having a tad more to eat, and the rest of the flight was relatively turb-free. It felt weird that it didn’t feel weird leaving China this time. I’ve managed it three times this year and there is a possibility of going again and more and more it feels like home from home. I was slightly naughty at T3 when arriving and picking up luggage - I walked the 10 minutes to T2 and used my card to grab a shower in the lounge, and a congratulatory couple of G&Ts, as I’d completed my 300th flight, covering 516569 miles, the longest of which was 7756 miles and, the shortest of which was 98 miles, at an average of 1728. And a carbon footprint that would make me one of the worst in the world if 90% of those weren’t for work, and therefore the footprint falls on the shoulders of my employers. I was tempted with the Christmas lunch in the lounge, but wanted to see the kids before bed. It’s been a tough year in terms of travel, with I’m guessing around a quarter of it away from home. So it’s going to be very much a family Christmas and hopefully no more travelling for at least a fortnight.

It just felt right after such a long journey...and may not be available much longer...

Bloody deserved...got to be up tomorrow early...晚安

Last night in Pingguo for the third time this year

Well it had been a treat popping back to Pingguo for a couple of days. I would like to have taken back a winter coat for Tan but apparently I’d only been allowed to take tiny stowed luggage with this trip, though that’s probably bullshit as for all my flights I’d been allowed to take all luggage as hand luggage. But I wasn’t going to moan as I’d try to take advantage of it and take two hand luggages plus a hold luggage that was not allowed technically...whoa...dangerous!

But the sad point was I was leaving today, yet again. The flight was not till tomorrow but it was horribly early. So I went to lunch at Luwen’s - he wasn’t there at first though his wife was and she was happy to see me but annoyingly not that surprised. Not that I wanted to surprise her but I thought she might be so as she wasn’t expecting me for at least another seven months.

But I called him and he turned up and we had just a couple of beers which was an added bonus...just to be with him and family. Then I had the stupid idea of going for a massage before getting the train. I thought there might be time, as I’ve thought on many a last day occasion in the past. I got in contact with our neighbour and she suggested where I might look for one, but it soon dawned on me that I would need to get to Nanning pronto.

While I was waiting around I went for a walk by our place and happened upon a new food place in a dead-end road, but really close. It was Zhang Hua Hua’s mother’s new place, and literally new. If I hadn’t been waiting to go to the train station I’d have stopped for a meal even though I’d just eaten. I really hope they do well. I have my doubts as it’s not a through-road but who knows? I said I’d definitely pay them a visit when I come back.

Zhang Huahua's mum's new place

I was WeChatting my neighbour at the time and she said she could get me a ticket in the future, and while I appreciated that it didn’t help me while I was in the queue. But I didn’t need to stress, and I logicked myself into that way of thinking. It was cool...I was still in Pingguo for a short while at least...I might as well enjoy it, and my flight wasn’t till tomorrow….

I just about got ticket for 4.05 and while going through the turnstile saw a black bloke which made me jealous; I'd managed all the summer without seeing a foreigner in Pingguo (except Steve once), and then in a fraction of a weekend I’d seen one. We caught a glimpse of each other as we were going through the lane for people who didn't have Chinese ID cards, and it was enough to say "ok, we're foreigners, but that's as much as we communicate" at least that was my idea. And it seemed to work as he got on another train.

At Nanning I first went to the bus place to ask about times tomorrow morning. They asked what time my flight was and this time I was honest and said 8am, and they told me I should take the 5.30am bus to the airport. I was thinking more like 6 so I suggested 5.45 instead. It was like a really silly form of haggling as the only loser could be me. She said ok I could take that but I could only buy the tickets on the day. So I asked her how long it would take - 50 minutes - but that’s how long it normally takes during the day. So I asked her specifically how long it would take that early in the morning - 40 minutes. Jeez, didn’t she get the context of the time from the conversation we just had?

I checked in the hotel then went for a bite and had a lovely huoguo that I could barely finish, washed down with a couple of beers. My left shoulder had really started aching this afternoon so I found a massage place and got an hour’s worth for 50 kuai...should have done this more often in Pingguo.

The hotel was one I’d had before - the Vienna Hotel...comfortable room and stuff but for various reasons I didn’t sleep till well after 1am for a 5am start.

Haiwei and Thunderf00t

Up at a respectable 7.30, that turned into gone 9 despite the cold. I showered and at nearly 10am decided that actually I would have breakfast, and walked to the jiao zi place and guzzled a lovely portion while explaining to the owner why I was back. She was happy to see me as she smiled for the fourth time since I’ve known her.

I found my lovely tee-shirt that Mon got for me nearly 10 years ago

Sadly I still take pictures of the view from the lift...

I hadn’t told many people I’d be in Pingguo this weekend but I had told Haiwei and I should have gone to see him last night, so I called him to see if he’d like to eat lunch and of course he did. We went to a relatively simple place and had a lovely huoguo and only two beers each which was refreshing in more ways than one. We arranged to meet for tea but as it transpired he was too tired. As I had only another 36 hours or so in this town I ought to have painted it red, but sadly I was also tired so went home to rest for a while in bed.

Bloody good huoguo with Haiwei

I spent the next few hours nearly getting to sleep watching “busted” videos from Thunderf00t on Youtube. I think I may have seen one of his years ago but quite like his science-oriented diatribes at people trying to make money from well-wishing but ignorant folk.

At 6pm I had to go to a friend’s for tea, but by then Li Kun had called me to meet up, and I genuinely wanted to, so made my excuses at 8.30pm to go to his house for a bite and a drink, but I’d also said to Haiwei I’d also meet him for a drink at 10.30pm…. He’d obviously had more of a nap than I had and was back in the groove of beers. I did my best and acted appropriately even if there was a rather drunken woman who didn’t. But I was very British about it and made my excuses by 11:30pm to go back to Li Kun’s. I managed to stay for some excellent raw fish dropped into boiling oil with quite a few friends, and it was nice not to have the pressure of playing the guitar for once.

First evening meal

Excellent fried fish with Li Kun

Watching the City match...we won't win this season but when we play well it's so nice to watch

I got home after 1am but in time for the City - Leicester match and watched us perform well for once completely taking our chances and getting a well-deserved three points. Excellent.

Sneaky return for a couple of days after Hanoi

I’d hoped to wangle a few days in Pingguo after a three-day kickoff meeting in Hanoi, but had been requested to stay in Vietnam till Friday, which in the scope of things was hardly torture. I’d booked an afternoon flight meaning I had to leave for the airport straight after lunch. Lunch being with one of my clients. I am by no means at all a foodie, but the food experiences I’ve had in Hanoi have at least allowed me to understand people who are. The stuff you wrap in leaves and dip in a dip were gorgeous, and so different from what I’d ever tasted before. Especially considering I was as far away from Pingguo as Paris is from London. But then the food between these places is probably pretty much as different.

When I arrived in Hanoi a week ago I could only notice the similarities with Guangxi, and given that they neighbour each other it’s not surprising the vegetation is similar. But the differences were the signs in Vietnamese and the amount of people (men) I saw urinating by the sides of the roads. I’m sure it happens in China and in the UK just as much and I probably just had a perchance gawp from my cab but it was my first impression on arrival.

Anyway I had a lovely time in my one night in the Mercure hotel, which I’d chosen as I only needed one night to become a Gold Member...that sounds a little rude. The lovely people on reception congratulated me on this and told me that as a Gold Member I would be able to check out later. I asked if this would apply to my stay and they somewhat sheepishly said they couldn’t put it on the system as I wasn’t yet a Gold Member, but they were human and said of course I could. Take that, “computer says no!”. I immediately felt guilty that I was only staying one night and the rest of the week would be at an Airbnb, and explained and apologised as probably only British people would do. It was 11am and three hours before check-in time but I hoped due to my soon-to-be Gold status they would sort me a room and they did so pronto. Now I’d not slept that much and was tired so what to do? It was almost like writing an equation on the back of an envelope (with the first syllable pronounced “en” rather than “um”). But it was pretty much midday and I knew I wouldn’t be able to stay up till that night, so I justified breaking into the duty free V and having a couple of snifters...and time justified it as by 2pm I was in the arms of Morpheus for a bit. The problem was when I got up at 5pm I was awake till stupid o’clock and ended up forcing a drink at 5am till 6am which didn’t work so I went down for breakfast at 7am, after which I did manage to sleep till 12.30pm. Now the bonus of the late checkout came into effect.

But that was my first day in Vietnam...not much to do with China other than the proximity. Back to the Friday my client, a lovely bloke named Chien, booked me an Uber-like taxi to the airport and told me it would be around 300 Dong. So I said my goodbyes and gave him a hearty handshake and a semi-hug as the tiny car rolled up. It was thankfully not a scary ride and I noticed that wherever you are in Hanoi there seem to be so many white people close by.

Really loved the street food in Hanoi...my last meal...hopefully not my very last...

Of course I was still technically working, and had to attend a meeting in the afternoon. Unfortunately I had quite a few queues to manage until I got past security. But the lounge in Hanoi was lovely. I self-served myself a rather large G&T before dialling in to my meeting and possibly got myself one or two more in the next half an hour. But finally I was free of work. I knew it wouldn’t be easy to get to Pingguo; the last train left before 9pm so I’d have to find a car. So I pinged my neighbour who works in the beauty shop and she gave me the address of a place to go in Nanning where there should be cars going to Pingguo.

Fun watching the planes landing while in a meeting

The 40 minute flight was actually pretty fine...I like to think I’m getting used to flying after virtually 300 flights, but as soon as turbulence sets in I get white knuckles….well not if after a couple of gins. But I arrived at 7.30pm and would have been out of the airport 10 minutes later had it not been for an interview by customs. Ok it wasn’t much of an interview but it was one of those experiences that made me a little proud. The customs bloke asked me if I spoke Mandarin. I was in two minds how to reply; saying “no” would have been easy but maybe wouldn’t have explained why I was only going to be there for three days, so I said “yes, but not perfectly”, which was true, but also could describe a whole range of ability. He asked me where I’d been and what I was planning to do and I explained I’d been working in Vietnam and was planning to spend three days in China as we had a place there and I wanted to see some friends before going back to the UK. It was boringly honest and it was boringly accepted, but I self fist-pumped as it could have been a tripping point...I’ve sort of taken it for granted that I can just visit China but it should never be taken for granted.

By 8pm I was on the airport bus to central Nanning but my bloody phone wasn’t online. I tried in vain to connect to the one-bar (as in bars out of four on the phone, not number of places selling alcohol) airport wifi but from experience resigned myself to the fact that I wouldn’t get online with that. Then I hit on the idea of putting in my English SIM and sending a quick SMS to Li Kun to put in some credit to my Chinese SIM in case that was the problem, which I bloody hoped it was.

I sent the message and swapped back SIMs, then was a bit annoyed at myself for not having hacked my phone with new firmware to allow dual SIMs. Apparently the Mate 10 Pro allows for dual SIM outside of Europe but they stop it by firm/software inside - even the SIM holder clearly has space for two micro SIMs but one is filled in. For a few pence and a lot of time I could easily do this. It’s the latter I don’t have. No sooner had my Chinese SIM connected than I got a call from Li Kun to tell me he’d had to put in 200 kuai to re-enable my line. What a con!

But I was online and my neighbour told me where to tell the taxi driver to go once I’d got off the bus. I flagged one down and 15 minutes later I was in the old north station area and indeed there was a car about to leave for Pingguo. It was one of the few times that a plan seemed to work. Of course it wasn’t that easy. I was told it would be 80 kuai, which I’d expected, and was a lot better than the 300 I’d paid in October for just me. But it meant we were picking up other people, and the next 40 minutes we spent doing that, going to places in Nanning then stopping and waiting and making phone calls until they turned up. Finally, on the outskirts of the city at a tube stop we found the last traveller and we were en route to Pingguo. At least I was in no hurry, and had the chance to speak a bit more Mandarin with the locals.

Although we were going to Pingguo, about 20km before we got off at Long’an, I got concerned and asked what was going on but the driver said something that I didn’t understand and I was too embarrassed to admit I didn’t understand. What happened was that we went through the toll gates, he paid 24.75 kuai, then did a u-turn and carried on to Pingguo, where when we got off it was another 4.75 kuai. Ah, clever - the journey from Nanning to Pingguo direct is 40 kuai so he’d saved over 10 kuai!

We eventually got to Pingguo soon after 11pm. I noticed that where the first bloke got off was rather close to Li Kun’s so I said I would like to do the same and paid the driver his 80 kuai, so he got about 35 quid for 90 minutes driving though he was about 20 mins from home.

Li Kun greeted me without any ceremony as is people’s wont here, and then called a mate to drive to my place to drop off my bags. I first insisted that I pay him back and he accepted the 200 kuai but asked what other currency I had. I nearly offered bitcoin but didn’t think that would go down too well so I showed him a 20 Euro note and he said he’d prefer that even though I told him it wasn’t worth as much. Maybe it was in his friends’ circles. Back home I took a sneaky swig of duty free V then went back down and we drove on to a new place that has not actually opened yet - it looks like a small bar with a stage for musicians and I was worried that I’d be asked to perform.

But I needn’t be worried...there were many of Li Kun’s friends there, some of whom I knew, some of whom apparently I’d met before, and some of whom I didn’t know at all I hope. But a few gan beis meant that we were all friends after a while. It was nice to feel that I wasn’t a stranger, just a non-Pingguo’er but I’ll accept that for the moment. I will look forward to coming back to this place when it’s opened fully...not sure when...but it will happen.

I was flagging by 1.30am and made my excuses. Li Kun was cool and gave me a lift back, I think happy that I’d made the effort to make it over despite the travel. Getting home it was a little weird getting used to the cold. Last month it was still in the high 20s so although no need for the air con it was comfortable. Now, for the first time since 2014 I was experiencing coldness in Pingguo. But fatigue and slight tipsiness meant I found some long pyjamas and put an extra cover on and I found it rather easy to sleep.